Friday, December 9th, 2016

Living it Up in Hip Kreuzberg, Berlin

22

Kreuzberg Bike

Long before arriving in Berlin, I knew it was a city for hipsters.  But Berlin is a gargantuan place — several times the size of Paris.  Just where was the hippest neighborhood of all?

I started researching and saw people say that both Kreuzberg and Prenzlauer Berg were very cool places to live.  But they seemed to be quite different, and most of the information was dated from a few years ago. In terms of hipness, that can be a lifetime.  So I reached out to the best current news source I had: Twitter.

I immediately got a reply from Adam:

“Prenzlauer Berg = Park Slope, Kreuzberg =Williamsburg, Friedrichshain is also nice :)”

I LOVE this analogy, and it’s so accurate.  By comparing Berlin neighborhoods to their Brooklyn counterparts, I knew immediately that Prenzlauer Berg would be hip but increasingly upscale and expensive, and popular with families.  Kreuzberg would be home to the hippest of the hip, the types that wax their moustaches and own actual record players.

Kreuzberg it would be.

Several months back, lodging company Wimdu offered me a chance to try one of their properties for free.  Check out their video here.  I agreed and we decided to wait a few months until I had a good opportunity.  When it became clear that I would be in Berlin for a week or longer, it was the perfect time — not least because Berlin is the home base of one of Wimdu along with many other travel startups.

I researched and combed through listing after listing in Berlin.  Wimdu is a very intuitive, easy-to-use site.  While most of Wimdu’s listings are in Europe, there are properties in New York, Sydney, Rio de Janeiro, and other major destinations.

Eventually, I settled on a beautiful-looking flat in the heart of Kreuzberg, right across the street from Görlitzer Banhof station.

First Apartment

Disaster Strikes

I arrived to the flat — and found myself in a studio apartment absolutely reeking of cigarette smoke.  It smelled like people had been chain-smoking for weeks.  The owner, Fabio, seemed nice enough but glared when I asked if there were any air fresheners in the apartment.

Secondly, although Fabio configured my Macbook to access the internet, the internet wouldn’t work on any of my other devices.  For most people, that wouldn’t be a problem.  For someone who makes her full-time living online, that is a problem, not least because I have several mobile-only apps and I was editing my ITB pitch on my iPad.

This felt like a bait and switch.

Fabio left.  I opened the windows wide to air the apartment out, shivering through the winter cold, telling myself that I could live with it.

Two hours later, I was still running to the window to gulp fresh air.  I couldn’t spend an afternoon here, let alone a week.  It was time to email Wimdu and see what my options were.

Wimdu to the Rescue

I quickly got in touch with Wimdu’s customer service.  I assumed I’d be out of luck — that I’d lose the deposit and would have to go find a hostel.  Not so.  A representative immediately started calling other landlords in the area, seeing if there was anywhere I could move.  Unlike most sites, Wimdu verifies each of their owners by phone and keeps their numbers on file for situations such as these.

Soon, the rep, René, found an apartment that was right across the street and perfect — a 100% nonsmoking apartment with working internet for all devices.  Within minutes, they put me in touch with the landlord, Martin, and we agreed to meet in an hour.  Most importantly, I wouldn’t have to pay a thing.

I later asked Wimdu if they found me a new flat for free because I was working with them, or if they would do the same thing for everyone.  Their answer: they would do this for everyone because the first flat was not as advertised.  While the smoke issue was a gray area (the apartment does say “smoking okay,” something I will know to avoid in the future), the internet problem was a clear violation of the listing.

I was so impressed by how Wimdu handled this.  There are lots of apartment booking sites out there, but this incident has made me a big fan of Wimdu’s quality assurance.  I will absolutely book with them again.

Lovely living room

The Perfect Berlin Flat

My new place was nothing short of spectacular.  I felt at home the moment I stepped in — plus, there was no smoke, and the internet was lightning-fast.

It had so much style.  It was the perfect blend of functional design with Berlin’s artsiness.  This is the exact kind of place I’d like to have someday, and Mario agreed.  We didn’t want to leave!

I loved the hardwood floors.  I loved that there was an iPod dock.  But most of all, I loved that it was SO warm!  Once temperatures dropped below freezing, it was such a relief to come home to a toasty flat each day.

Insanely comfortable bed

The bedroom was tiny, and the queen-sized bed was wedged between two walls.  It sounds strange, but it was actually perfect.  The walls were perfect to lean against when working in bed the next day.

Sunny Bathroom

I loved the bathroom.  It’s amazing how a yellow shower curtain transforms it into a bright, sunny room!

Kitchen

“Don’t eat the stuff in the jars!” Martin warned me.  “It’s for decoration only!”

“Don’t have to tell me twice,” I assured him.  Well, except for that one time a few years back…

Tiny goblets

I loved the details, like these adorable wine goblets.  These were our only glasses — it made me feel fancy!

Lovely China

Rather than generic white plates, as most apartments would give you, we got green-and-white-patterned china.

The flat wasn’t perfect, though.  The listing said in two separate places that it had a washing machine, and it did not.  I reached out to Martin, and he apologized, saying he had corrected it earlier in the German listing but not the English one.  I’m happy to see that the English listing has since been corrected.

While that was inconvenient, we made it work.

Kreuzberg, Berlin

Kreuzberg Life

Kreuzberg was fantastic!  If I ever move to Berlin, Kreuzberg would be at the top of my list.  It was a cool neighborhood, but not touristy in the least.  I was blown away by how cheap the restaurants were, and I felt very safe as well.

Kreuzberg has traditionally been Berlin’s Turkish neighborhood, and it still has a major Turkish presence today.  We got to experience that firsthand when Mario went to a Turkish barbershop to get his head shaved.  For €15 ($19), about the same price that he’d pay in London, Mario got a head shave — and on top got a beard trim, super-precise razor detailing, an eyebrow trim, a glass of Turkish tea, and he got his face washed with sweet lemony face wash that I kept leaning in and sniffing for the rest of the day.

Kreuzberg Barbershop

With a three-day blizzard and temperatures that stayed below freezing for the bulk of our stay, Mario and I stayed within a narrow radius of our place most of the time.  It was just too cozy to go anywhere further!  If you book this apartment or stay near Görlitzer Banhof, here are some restaurants to try:

  • Rocco — Lausitzer Platz 13.  Cheap and delicious pizza, but the true standout was the bruschetta on the juiciest bread ever!
  • Mac’s Kebap — Ecke Eisenbahn & Muskauer.  Awesome kebabs for a ridiculous €2.80 each!
  • Falafel — Skalitzer Strasse 103.  Tiny place with cheap and delicious falafel and other Middle Eastern mezze.
  • Hannibal — Wiener Strasse 69 (hehe).  A nice cafe with good milkshakes and €5 burgers.  A bit smoky.

We also lucked out — we went out to see a few friends of mine and a few friends of his, and both flats were in walking distance of our place.

Snowy Kreuzberg

As cold as it was, my time in Kreuzberg is home to warm memories.  I’m looking forward to coming back to Berlin — preferably in the summer — and exploring this fabulous neighborhood even further.

Essential Info: The apartment retails for €86 ($111.34), €470 ($608) per week, or €1696 ($2196) per month.  The couch folds out to a bed, so it can technically fit four.

Many thanks to Wimdu for the complimentary accommodation and for handling the apartment switch quickly, effectively and professionally.  All opinions, as always, are my own.

Comments

22 Responses to “Living it Up in Hip Kreuzberg, Berlin”
  1. Looks like a fantastic stay! Glad the company took care of you – stale cigarette stench is the WORST.

  2. Amanda says:

    Sorry, I am confused….Wimdu offered you a “complimentary” stay but you had to pay a deposit? Please clarify

  3. Dani says:

    This place sounds fantastic! I will definitely bookmark this for our next visit to Berlin (and if we don’t get to stay in the apartment, we’ll make use of your restaurant recommendations) – Kreuzberg really is a great neighborhood and I can’t wait to go back to see what’s changed since our last visit. We used Wimdu.com last year to book an apartment in Buenos Aires and were pleasantly surprised with their selection and their rates – much cheaper than other apartment rental companies!

  4. Ah the apartments in Berlin are fabulous!! I used Wimdu and stayed in Friedrichshain – the owner, as part of his show-around, told me I was welcome to drink his freezer full of vodka! Great you sorted out a new place so quickly. Now, if now if only to live the hipster life like that again…

  5. Sam says:

    Berlin’s a great place to rent an apartment; I’ve done it twice there now! We’ll have to try out your restaurant recommendations next time we’re there, especially Rocco’s “juicy” bread!

  6. Amanda says:

    This neighborhood looks awesome! And glad to hear of the good customer service from Wimdu.

  7. Thanks for the post. When we go to Berlin we’ll know which neighbourhoods to check out! There’s nothing worse than the smell of smoke…actually there is, the smell of stale smoke! Gross. Glad they sorted it out for you. I though the small bedroom was hilarious/cozy!

    Cheers.

  8. Lesley says:

    I’m glad you loved Kreuzberg! Hope to see more Berlin posts this week. 🙂

  9. That’s awesome that they sorted you out. Looks like a nice place.

  10. So good to hear about the awesome customer service Wimdu provides!

  11. Kristine says:

    Okay, now I totally want to go to Berlin. I used Wimdu this summer in Florence! We got an apartment right by the marketplace with these amazing floor-to-ceiling windows that let us look down on the scene below. We actually rented a room and shared the rest of the apartment with other people, but it was nice talking to the other travelers. The TV with Italian-dubbed MTV wasn’t bad either ;). It was cheap, too–when we split the costs, it ended up being comparable to staying in a 4-bedroom dorm.

  12. Bianca says:

    I never considered renting an apartment when on holiday. My husband likes his own space so he is not into hostels. This sounds like a great compromise and money saver if staying somewhere for more than a week.

  13. Sofie says:

    Great that your problem got sorted out so quickly and that the new apartment was suited your needs (well, apart from the washing machine).
    Maybe I’m being too sceptical, but I wonder if, when you asked if they would’ve offered the rearrangement service to anyone, they wouldn’t have said yes either way.
    Guess there’s no way to be certain unless you have the bad luck of at a certain moment paying for an apartment that doesn’t turn out to be what it should’ve been.

  14. Claudine says:

    That apartment is so cute. It looks like you ended up in a good area, anyway. I would have been disappointed about the washing machine, but for a stay of a week or two, I probably could have made that work out.

  15. Sounds like you enjoyed Berlin more than me! I just didn’t really get it :-/

  16. What a great place to stay. Kreuzberg looks cool. Will check it out when I’m in Berlin in a couple of weeks. I have been craving for a good doener kebab ever since I left Germany 9 years ago.

  17. Berlin is such a cool place to live in! I’ve lived in most districts, but not yet Kreuzberg so I guess that’s next on my list. Good to know you had such a great time especially when you escaped the cigarette smell and no internet access 🙂

  18. Tony says:

    Can you name the barbershop? I’m here now and looking for a barber. Been traveling s few months and my precise cut and trimmed beered is begining to earn me spare change on the street.

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