Friday, September 30th, 2016

Magical Moments in Emilia-Romagna

24

Roses at Fattoria Paradiso

Let me tell you about Emilia-Romagna — an Italian region that is so dear to me.

It’s not as famous as Tuscany.  There isn’t artwork on every corner like in Florence, nor does it buzz in the way that Rome does, nor is it as picturesque as Venice.

But there’s something so warm about Emilia-Romagna.  The people are so friendly and kind.  The cities are vibrant and exciting.  The small towns are straight out of a painting.  The food is exceptional — by far the best I’ve had in Italy.

And at the same time, this region is incredibly under-touristed compared to Italy’s more popular regions. You don’t have to fight through umbrella-toting crowds or dodge tour buses in Emilia-Romagna, and the tourists that do spend time here happen to be Italian themselves.

That’s the Italy that I love, and that’s why I’ve been fantasizing about moving to Bologna, Emilia-Romagna’s largest city, for every day since I left there a few weeks ago!

On my latest visit to Emilia-Romagna, I had many magical moments that made me so deeply happy to be there in that very moment.  Here they are.

Brisighella

Discovering Romantic Brisighella

It’s time for another round of Small Towns in Europe That I Love, because Brisighella absolutely belongs on this list.  It’s such a tiny place, but filled with colors and beautiful views of the countryside.

That hidden alley on the second floor of the buildings is called Alley of the Donkeys (Via dei Asini), and people ran to hide up there whenever the town was under attack.

All along, I had been hoping to find a tiny and beautiful town in Emilia-Romagna.  This is it.

Tagliatelle Ragu in Bologna

Digging Into the Real Bolognese

In a city known for being having the best food in Italy, tagliatelle ragu is Bologna’s signature dish.  This is what spaghetti bolognese wishes it could be: brownish, not red, and clinging to the thick noodles.

I had a fabulous tagliatelle ragu at Osteria dell’Orsa, a favorite of the Blogville crew.  Mario and I got two tagliatelle ragu dishes, two desserts, a large bottle of water, and a glass of wine each for less than 20 euros total.  (The tagliatelle ragu technically isn’t listed on the menu, but they have it every night — ask for it!)

Blue Night Bagno di Romagna

Celebrating Blue Night in Bagno di Romagna

The special overnight excursion of our week was to the town of Bagno di Romagna, where they were celebrating La Notte Celeste, or Blue Night.  This festival is popular with Italians but very few foreigners actually get to see it.

The streets were draped in blue gauze.  Parades took place through the town with youngwomen dressed as angels and trees leading children in complimentary costumes.  An awesome 80s cover band played (seriously, they were awesome).  Eventually, bunches of illuminated blue balloons were released into the sky.

And unlike more famous European festivals, people weren’t obnoxiously drunk and making fools of themselves.  People walked around, chatted with friends, and celebrated.  This festival was all about good clean fun, and it felt wonderful.

Pink Parma

Colorful Days in Parma

I didn’t expect to fall in love with Parma, but that’s exactly what happened!  This city is so colorful, from the pink Baptistery to the purple flowers on the Ponte Verdi to the bright red and yellow walls that dot the city.

I was lucky enough to meet up with my friend Alex, who has been living in Parma for the past several months, and she took me to the most important places in town: her favorite gelato place and her favorite cafe.  Perfection.

Fattoria Paradiso

Diving into Barbarossa Wine at Fattoria Paradiso

I’ve been to lots of wineries in my life — and a few stand high above the rest.  Some have the most breathtaking surroundings; some feed you a beautiful lunch in the heart of the countryside; some invite you as friends and serve the best cured meats EVER.

I have a new one to add to that list: Fattoria Paradiso.  Not only were we welcomed with open arms by a host of characters, we were also fed tantalizing history.  Artists traveled far and wide to create artwork for the labels, and there are wines in the cellar dating back to World War I.  One of Fellini’s favorite wines is from here, and he demanded it frequently.  People traveled far and wide for the Barbarossa wine, which is only grown in this region.

Oh, and on top of that, peacocks frolicked around the grounds.

It was as interesting an experience as it was delicious, and I loved my visit.

Bologna from Above

Climbing to the Top of Bologna

I love getting to the top of the highest structure in town and looking around.  In Bologna, that meant scaling the Torre Asinelli, one of Bologna’s Twin Towers and the highest leaning tower in Italy.  (Believe it or not, Italy’s highest leaning tower is not in Pisa!)

Getting to the top was an exerting journey, but the views were sensational.

Michele the Chef

Getting SOTM Stories from Emilia-Romagnans

Mario can always tell when someone has a story.  One night in Bagno Romagna, he noticed our chef was covered in tattoos.  “If someone has that many tattoos, they have a story to tell,” he told me.  It turns out that Michele, our chef, served in Italy’s military and had some stories to tell from his time in service.

Nick set us up with some incredibly interesting people to photograph, like Aldo Simoncini (goalkeeper of San Marino’s national football team) and Fabio Lamborghini (nephew of Lamborghini himself).

Emilia-Romagnans will talk your ear off — and if you have a chance to hear one of them tell a story, listen.

Gelateria Gianni

Tasting the Best Gelato Ever

I may have made this declaration before.  I may make this declaration again.  But for the few moments that I enjoyed a cornetto topped with fragola (strawberry) and Samurai (something white with streaks of black pepper) gelato, I was in heaven.  I had discovered Gelateria Gianni.

You’ll pay ever-so-slightly-more than most gelaterie in Bologna (think €2.50 ($3) rather than €2.00 ($2.50) for two scoops), but it is so unbelievably worth it.

Ferrara

Experiencing Silence in Ferrara

This was a case of bad timing on my part — I arrived in the town of Ferrara, city of the Renaissance and a UNESCO site, at 1:00 PM on the hottest day of the year.  It was about 100 degrees (38 C) and there were so few people on the streets that it felt like a ghost town.

I had heard so much about Ferrara — that it was a lively student city, that only bicycles were allowed in the city center — but no matter where I turned, the streets were empty.  Occasionally a lone biker would ride by.  Very eerie.

Free Hugs Zombie Parade

Running Into a Zombie Parade

Yeah, I don’t know what happened, but I stepped onto Via Independienza in Bologna and was suddenly surrounded by zombies.

Kate Running Through a Parmigiano Reggiano Factory

And That Time I Ran Through a Cheese Factory

My cheese obsession is legendary.  And then I finally got to achieve my dream: I visited a Parmigiano Reggiano factory, ran through aisles and aisles of aging cheeses, and did star jumps.  It was everything I ever hoped it would be.

Bagno di Romagna

Planning Your Trip to Emilia-Romagna

To get the best out of Emilia-Romagna, I suggest booking an apartment rental in Bologna for the duration of your stay and taking day trips by train.  Bologna is brilliantly located — you can get to Venice, Florence, Milan, or Rome in under two hours on high speed trains, and you can make it to towns like Parma, Modena, Ferrara, Rimini, and Ravenna in less than an hour each way.

Mario and I stayed with the other bloggers at the Blogville apartment for a few days, then moved on to the apartments of the Hotel Metropolitan.  This is a very nice, very modern luxury property in a perfect location off Via Independienza, and we had a great stay.  It runs at about €150 ($193) per night.

However, if you want somewhere cheaper, or more charming and typically Italian, I suggest you take a look at apartment rental sites — Airbnb, Wimdu, and Roomorama are great places to start.

Emilia-Romagna is a fabulous place to visit, with something for everyone, and I can’t recommend it enough.

Essential Info: Brisighella is about a one-hour train ride from Bologna, including a change in Faenza.  Tickets cost about €10 ($13) each way.

Blue Night, or Notte Celeste, takes place on a Saturday in mid-June with different celebrations throughout Emilia-Romagna.  Bagno di Romagna is about a 90-minute bus ride from Bologna.  Tickets cost about  €10 ($13) each way.

Parma is about a one-hour train ride from Bologna.  Tickets cost about €7 ($9) each way.  Alex’s favorite gelato place is called Cremeria Emilia.

Fattoria Paradiso is a one-hour drive from Bologna.  Alternatively, take the train to Forlimpopoli (one hour, €10 ($13) each way) and take a 10-15 minute cab from there. Contact them (click on the word “Contatti” for email addresses) for information about visits, whether for touring or dining.

Climbing to the top of Torre Asinelli in Bologna costs €4 ($5).

Gelateria Gianni is right in from of the Twin Towers of Bologna.  Cones with two scoops cost €2.50 ($3).

Ferrara is a 40-minute train ride from Bologna.  Tickets cost about €4.40 ($6) each way.

You can arrange your own visit to a Parmigiano Reggiano factory through ParmigianoReggiano.it.  Tours are free, but they do not provide transportation.  I visited a factory a 10-minute (and €8 ($10)) taxi ride from Parma’s train station.  Tours are only offered once per day and begin very early.

This is a Blog Ville campaign, created and managed by iambassador in partnership with the Emilia-Romagna tourism boardAdventurousKate.com maintains full editorial control of the content published on this site.

Many thanks to Eurail.com for their support of the European leg of the SOTM Tour. All opinions, as always, are my own.

Comments

24 Responses to “Magical Moments in Emilia-Romagna”
  1. Kerry says:

    Your expression in the cheese factory is wonderful! I’m so jealous!

  2. Laura says:

    Hah, I love that you ran through the cheese factory – I love Parmeggiano Reggiano and would totally be giddy there too!

  3. Amanda says:

    Mmm that pasta bolognese looks amaaaazing. And who doesn’t love a random zombie parade??

  4. Helen says:

    Looks beautiful Kate. I want to be there right now! Eating cheese, hugging zombies and celebrating Blue Night. Wonderful!

    Hope you’re having a lovely time!

    Suddenly wanting to eat tagliatelle ragu….

    🙂

  5. Julie says:

    If you are still in Bologna, I would highly suggest this ice cream place: La Sorbetteria Castiglione, via Catiglione, 44. I’m happy to see your enthusiasm for Emilia Romagna. I love it too.

    Julie

  6. Andy Santos says:

    Great pics Kate! Looks like Italy really has a lot to offer. Plenty of places to visit, so little time. Wish I can travel and make a living out of it like you do.

    Cheers!

  7. We are in Bologna as of today and have the cheese tour scheduled for Monday morning! I can’t wait, but hubby and kids aren’t as thrilled about cheese as I am. As of tomorrow we have rented an apartment in Reggio Emilia, so can’t wait to slow down a bit and have small town time. Thanks for all of your info, it helps!

  8. I took my boyfriend on a surprise trip to Bologna after hearing how great the region was. We were so not disappointed, and even though it was late January, I had ice cream after every meal! Next time – the balsamic and parmesan tours!

  9. We are on a road trip through Italy later this year. This place looks great. Might have to drop by 🙂

  10. Arianwen says:

    Blue night looks really cool. I’m sure I would have absolutely loved the 80s cover band. That sounds right up my street! 🙂

  11. Patrick says:

    My partner and I are heading to europe in october and we came across your blog in the process of doing some research/ arguing as to where we want to go 🙂 . We agreed after reading your description of this area that it is a must do for both of us. Where next is the question lol.

  12. What a sweet place! Ive been on adventures in france but italy is a whole other ballgame

  13. Haha – love the cheese factory photo! I’ve never heard of this part of Italy, it sounds wonderful!!

  14. It was so nice to meet up – glad you got to see lovely Parma! 🙂

  15. Amy says:

    Only just discovered your blog via Facebook and was eager to see if you had visited Bologna- yay you have! I lived there for 6 months while I studied at the university. Next time you go, you MUST go to Cremeria Funivia, a gelateria in Piazza Cavour. I would say it’s the best I tried in the city! So delicious. Their best flavours were Pistachio and Cassata Siciliana. Yum Yum. I was thrilled to see you found Marsalino as well- I lived just a few apartment blocks up from that restaurant! Their tagliatelle al ragù and bruschettone were to die for. If you ever return be sure you visit Momu’s Cafe on Via Marsala for a famous “Magic Sam” cocktail. Bewarned- they’re punchy! And make sure you get to Spacca Napoli on Via San Vitale, 45/A for a real Neapolitan tasting pizza if you can’t actually get to Naples. We didn’t find a better pie in the whole city. Enjoy! Please visit these places 🙂

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