Monday, May 30th, 2016

The Best Things I Ate in the San Francisco Bay Area

33

Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco

I adore California. It’s my favorite state to visit as a traveler. I love the beaches, the palm trees, the laid-back attitude. And I love In & Out Burger. (I don’t love how you have to drive everywhere in most places, but hey, no destination’s perfect.)

But my favorite thing about California is the constant sunshine — and with it, the bountiful fresh produce. Farmer’s markets are active year-round here. You don’t tend to appreciate this until you’ve tried to find an avocado for sale in London that wasn’t as hard as a rock. (Spoiler: I tried and failed.)

I visited California on a campaign for Visit California, focusing on the culinary culture of the Bay Area and Top Chef-owned restaurants. (For my international readers, the Bay Area is the area surrounding San Francisco, including Oakland and Napa Valley, which I visited on this trip.)

Chef Yigit Pura and Kate

Maybe it’s all the sunshine, but all of the chefs and culinary professionals were so nice, friendly, and eager to chat about food near and far! Like Yigit Pura from Tout Sweet Patisserie, pictured above.

The food was nothing short of stupendous. I decided to break down my absolute favorite dishes of the trip, so when you make your next trip to San Francisco, you can eat as well as I did!

Brussels Sprouts at Bottega

Brussels Sprouts Salad at Bottega in Yountville

If there’s any dish that I yearn for weeks later, it’s this — a shaved brussels sprouts salad with marcona almonds and pecorino and a Meyer lemon vinaigrette, topped with a sieved egg. I NEED TO LEARN HOW TO MAKE THIS AND IT DOESN’T LOOK TOTALLY IMPOSSIBLE TO REPLICATE. It was an absolutely perfect balance of flavors and textures and that’s honestly all I can say about it.

Bottega was, hands down, the best restaurant where I ate on this trip. Every single dish was outstanding — the short ribs (mentioned below), a simple spaghetti dish inspired by Sophia Loren’s hometown, a chocolate panna cotta, even the asparagus soup amuse-bouche and this fantastic dip for the bread! Chef Michael Chiarello features dishes from all over the varied microclimates of Italy.

(Just know one thing — the outdoor seating was underneath a red tarp, which gave all our photos a weird neon red tint. That’s why the color is so weird on that photo — I removed all of the red, pink, and magenta so it would look somewhat normal! Cailin remarked that my original photos looked like that episode of Seinfeld when the chicken place with the giant neon sign moves next door to Kramer…she wasn’t wrong. BAD CHICKEN!!)

Insalata di Cavolini di Bruxelles, $13.

Fried Chicken Benedict at Pican

Fried Chicken Benedict at Picán in Oakland

Eggs Benedict. But remove the Canadian bacon and add a boneless fried chicken breast. And top it with mustardy hollandaise.

WHY HAVE WE NOT BEEN DOING THIS FOR YEARS?!

Picán is a kickass Southern restaurant in the heart of Oakland and they definitely don’t scrimp on the decadence. Other standouts included the shrimp and grits (mentioned below), fried green tomatoes with gravlax and a kickass horseradish mascarpone sauce, and Louisiana-style beignets. And the Bloody Marys? KILLER.

Signature Chicken Benedict, $18. Brunch only.

Maui at Tout Sweet

The Maui at Tout Sweet Patisserie in San Francisco

If you have a sweet tooth in the least — or even if you’re like me and go for salty more often — stop in at Tout Sweet. Chef Yigit Pura, the winner of Top Chef Desserts, has created a variety of creative and whimsical desserts. And surprisingly, I didn’t find any of them overly sweet!

The Maui is so simple — tapioca, coconut milk, mango. It reminded me of my favorite Thai dessert, sticky rice with mango, and it’s named after Yigit’s beloved dog.

Other standouts: a fabulous pineapple cake, the WTF (“what the flavor”) cookie, a breakfast bar made by throwing lots of random stuff in a pan, and a raspberry pistachio macaron-like pastry.

Prices and selection vary.

Octopus and Chorizo at Shakewell

Octopus and Chorizo at Shakewell in Oakland

Who knew that octopus and chorizo was such a divine pairing? It makes so much sense once you taste it. This is actually Chef Jen Biesty’s favorite dish on the menu, and it was mine as well. Octopus can easily be cooked badly, but every piece was perfect, and the chorizo lit it on fire.

Shakewell is a rollicking Spanish restaurant in Oakland and their dishes are both classic and unusual. Bacon-wrapped dates and duck liver mousse…but also a black rice dish with clams, chorizo, and saffron, among other ingredients. Chef Biesty was also a Top Chef contestant!

Spanish octopus, potatoes, celery hearts, salsa verde, arbequina olives, spanish chorizo, $17.

Short Ribs at Bottega

Braised Short Ribs at Bottega in Yountville

I couldn’t just mention one dish at Bottega and call it a day — I have to mention the short ribs as well. Short ribs braised to the point that they were deeply smoky and sweet like candy, falling off the bone. This is the kind of dish you eat and make embarrassingly loud yummy noises over until it’s gone.

Costolette Brasate e Affumicate, $32.

Mozzarella at Mario's Bohemian Cigar Store Cafe

Fresh Mozzarella at Mario’s Bohemian Cigar Store Cafe in San Francisco

The best Italian food starts with the best ingredients. (Why else do you think Emilia-Romagna is my favorite food region in the world? Ah, I digress…) And this mozzarella astounded me. It wasn’t burratta, but the inside was so moist it was almost soupy. I’m closing my eyes and imagining spreading it on a baguette…

This was one of the first stops on the Tastes of the City North Beach Food Tour, which was led by North Beach native Tom, a hilarious guy who got just as excited about us trying the food as we did! The tour, specializing in all Italian-American food, was excellent. We were us a truly insane amount of food over a three-hour period. All of the ingredients were fresh and all the vendors were such cool people that I ended up gabbing with them for the whole visit!

Join the tour for $55.

Kate with Cannoli at Victoria Pastry

Cannolis at Victoria’s Pastry in San Francisco

This was another top-notch spot on the Tastes of the City North Beach Food Tour.

If you know me, you know I’m very serious about cannolis. If you’ve ever asked me what to do in Boston, I’ve ordered you to go to Modern Pastry, NOT Mike’s across the street, and get a cannoli. I won’t touch a cannoli if it’s been sitting around cream-filled all day.

Did these pass the test? Well, we walked in…and they were waiting for us, already filled.

“When were these filled?” I asked Tom suspiciously.

“While we were across the street,” he answered with a grin.

“THEN THEY’RE OKAY!” I crowed. And they were more than okay. Flaky, creamy, sugary perfection. We had a moment, as you can see in the photo.

Join the tour for $59.

Sandwich at Molinari

Sandwiches at Molinari’s in San Francisco

Another notable stop on the Tastes of the City North Beach Food Tour was Molinari’s, which looks exactly like an Italian deli should (there’s a picture further down in the post). Salamis hanging from the ceiling? Check. Bright blue boxes of Baci chocolates? Check. Butchers telling people to stay away from me because I’m a Boston Sicilian? Check.

If I lived in San Francisco, I’d shop here all the time. But I settled for having a sandwich with salami, mozzarella, roasted red peppers, and pesto. Perfection inside a loaf of bread.

Join the tour for $59.

Margherita Pizza at The Forge

Margherita Pizza at The Forge in Oakland

As I tried this pizza at The Forge, I lit up with delight — this was just like my favorite pizza in London, Franco Manca! Neapolitan-style sourdough pizza. Could not be more hipster. The great thing about pizza like this is that it puts the toppings on display, and I couldn’t get enough of the tomato sauce, which tasted like sunshine.

Also on the menu? Wisconsin-style cheese curds, delicious brussels sprouts, and a meatball pizza called Balls Deep. Which is the kind of thing I order based on name alone.

I visited The Forge as part of the Savor Oakland Jack London Square Food Tour, which is a great way to discover Oakland’s culinary side as well as the city’s Urban Wine Trail. They also offer a Chinatown food tour.

Join the tour for $55.

Satine Dessert at Tout Sweet

The Satine at Tout Sweet in San Francisco

My second favorite from Tout Sweet is not that double meringue lemon tart (though it was amazing!) — it’s the brown pastry behind it. The Satine is named after Nicole Kidman’s character from Moulin Rouge: a roasted, flourless, gluten-free hazelnut milk chocolate cake. So fancy.

(Also, guess what, celiacs? There are a few pastries at Tout Sweet that are naturally gluten-free. No recipe tweaks or crappy imitations. Just delicious desserts that happen to be gluten-free.)

Prices and selection vary.

Seafood Dumplings at M.Y. China

Seafood Dumplings at M.Y. China in San Francisco

You can’t go to San Francisco without getting Chinese food at least once. Look for Chinese food and there will be dozens if not hundreds of recommendations. As for me? I went to the modern M.Y. China, by Chef Martin Yan, and loved everything we had, from the Szechuan green beans to the Peking duck to the crispy tofu to the black pepper-glazed sea bass.

But most of all, I loved these little seafood dumplings. The dumpling is made with spinach and the insides are filled with scallops and shrimp. They reminded me of the euphoria-inducing dumplings I had at Shandong Mama in Melbourne, Australia!

Spicy seafood dumplings, $9.

Shrimp and Grits at Pican

Shrimp and Grits at Picán in Oakland

One of my biggest oversights when I ate my way through the South was never getting to try shrimp and grits. And perhaps I’m doing it wrong by trying them in California…but these were so fantastic, rich and deep and barbecue-y and moist, that I have to give them a shoutout here. The fried okra was a nice touch, too!

Gulf Shrimp and Logan Turnpike Mill Grits, $18.

Jicama Salad at Mijita

Jicama Salad at Mijita in San Francisco

At the time that I ate this fabulous salad, it was the culmination of a gluttonous afternoon at Tout Sweet and then the North Beach tour. But this was absolutely perfect — so light, so simple, a perfect combination of flavors. Jicama, grapefruit, avocado, pumpkin seeds. What more could you need?

Mijita is a fabulous Mexican restaurant located in the Ferry Building. It’s a great spot to drop in after photographing a pink sunset on the Bay Bridge. Also try the ceviche tostadas, the margaritas, and any dish Chef Traci Des Jardins happens to come up with for a special (we enjoyed a pork neck salad with chicharones).

It was also nice getting to share this meal with Chef Melissa King from Top Chef Boston — a.k.a. the only season of Top Chef I ever watched! She’s got a lot of exciting stuff planned for the next few months, including a stint in one of my favorite countries…

Jicama salad, $7.

And as for the drinks…

Coffee. Wine. Cocktails. Three of my favorite things, and California does all three quite well. Here are my #1 favorites in all three categories:

Kate and Salt Air Margarita

Salt Air Margarita at Calavera in Oakland

Salt on the rim? That’s been done a million times. But if you’re looking for something modern, Calavera offers a Salt Air Margarita, where you get a foamy cloud of salt that just sits on your margarita! I already love this so much more than salt on the rim!

Calavera is a cool restaurant with an amazing bar area — it’s all rare tequilas, white shelves, and a ladder sliding along it. Expect more on it in my Oakland post soon.

(Note that I’m holding the mini size given to us by the owner. The actual margarita you get off the menu is much larger.)

Salt Air Margarita, $13.

Wine at Bottega

Bambino e Mamma Cabernet at Chiarello Family Vineyards in Yountville

Chiarello Family Vineyards is tied into Bottega — both are products of Chef Michael Chiarello. Chef has named wines after all four of his children. My favorite was Bambino e Mamma, meaning Baby Boy and Mother, for his youngest son. I’m not good at writing about wine, so let’s just say that it was exceptionally lovely.

I was ready to buy a bottle of it — then when I realized it was $75 a bottle (even if that’s a good price for a wine you love!), I quickly moved on. Ah, someday I’ll be able to drop money like that.

Bambino e Mamma Cabernet, $75 per bottle in the restaurant or online, or $900 for a case of 12.

Latte at Blue Bottle Coffee

Latte at Blue Bottle Coffee in Oakland

If you need some caffeination, the Bay Area has tons of fantastic options. My personal favorite was the rich, full latte I got at Blue Bottle Coffee. I visited the W.C. Morse location in Oakland location, but they have additional locations throughout the Bay Area, New York, Los Angeles and Tokyo.

Caffe Latte, $5.

Molinari San Francisco

Kate’s Top Recommendations for the Bay Area

Really, every place on this list is excellent. But if you ate at all of them, you would explode. Hell, I felt like the gluttony dude in Seven after packing them all into four days. My stomach hurt so much after this trip that I was carrying around ginger tea bags for days.

But if you wanted to narrow it down to three out-of-this-world dining experiences, here are the ones that I would recommend the most:

Lunch at Bottega in Yountville. Seriously, make the journey out to Napa Valley solely to eat here. Go for lunch and enjoy the outdoor atmosphere. You will not regret it one iota. This was one of the best meals of my life.

Tastes of the City North Beach Food Tour. I’ve done a lot of food tours and this one stands out for the quality of the food as well as the friendliness of the vendors, which is rare. Plus, Tom, the guide, is a character and a half and knows North Beach like the back of his hand. He’s a little kooky in the best way possible. I loved getting to know him!

Brunch at Picán in Oakland. But you’ll get more out of it if you’re not from the South. Go totally decadent for brunch and be sure to top it with one of their fabulous cocktails.

That said, forget my top three — the best thing you can do is go to whatever place sounds awesome to you! Happy eating and don’t forget the elastic pants!

Essential Info: Tastes of the City North Beach Food Tour costs $59 for three hours, which I think is astoundingly good value considering the quality and quantity of the food. Do not eat beforehand — you will be getting more than enough for a full meal!

Savor Oakland’s Jack London Square Food Tour costs $55 for three hours, and while the food wasn’t quite on the level of the North Beach tour, I found it to be a wonderful way to eat your way through a city that so many people don’t know about. They also have a Chinatown food tour for $59.

While in San Francisco I stayed at two hotels: Hotel Zephyr and Hotel Zelos.

Hotel Zephyr is by Fisherman’s Wharf, a touristy area that I prefer to avoid (think Times Square/Faneuil Hall). There’s a lot of funky art in the lobby, including a wax statue of Leonardo DiCaprio, and rooms were very comfortable. I’d stay here if you want to be near the waterfront. Doubles from $359.

I much preferred Hotel Zelos, which was better situated near Union Square and had comfortable, luxurious rooms with crazy deep tubs, as well as a chic cocktail bar, Dirty Habit. Doubles from $348.50.

In Oakland I stayed at the Oakland City Center Marriott, which was in a convenient location and got the job done. Pretty standard, not too exciting, but very comfortable. Ask for a room with a view of San Francisco. Doubles from $189.

Are these hotels too expensive? In the past I’ve stayed at the Green Tortoise in San Francisco, which I think is the best hostel in the United States. It has a PERFECT location in my favorite neighborhood, North Beach. The private rooms (all with shared bathroom) are situated in a quiet house down the street from the main hostel. Free breakfast every day includes eggs (!!) and bagels (!!!), and they also do free dinner a few nights a week! Dorms from $34, doubles with shared bathroom from $80.

The best way to get around San Francisco and Oakland is to use a combination of public transit and Uber. (New to Uber? Get a free ride up to $15 with the promo code 9x41m.) Public transit is good in some neighborhoods but poor in others, and Uber will save you a lot of headaches. It’s best to rent a car to get to Yountville and Napa Valley, but PLEASE don’t drink and drive!

I was hosted in California as part of a campaign with Visit California. All opinions, as always, are my own.

Have you been to the Bay Area? Where’s your favorite place to eat?The best food experiences I had on a recent trip to the San Francisco Bay Area with Visit California.

Comments

33 Responses to “The Best Things I Ate in the San Francisco Bay Area”
  1. Looks like you ate well! I grew up in the Bay Area and love the food there. Blue Bottle coffee is still my favorite!

  2. Michelle says:

    Yum! All of this looks delicious. We went to San Francisco for the first time a few months ago. I had some really good fish tacos!

  3. Lisa says:

    I ate at Bottega shortly after it opened and also fell in love with the brussels sprouts salad. While I have no desire to tediously shred sprouts with a mandolin, the thing that I took away from this salad is the sieved egg. It’s really easy to sieve a hard boiled egg in a ricer and add it to a salad, and I do it quite often. Also, using a bitter curly green like frisee is an easy way to get some of the character of the sprouts, without all the work. And it’s really easy to make a vinaigrette with lemon juice.

  4. Why did I click this post at 1:30am :'( looks like you really enjoyed! 😀

  5. Anna says:

    I think this is your most delicious-looking post yet. Shrimp aside I actually want to try everything on here. I never felt more restaurant-deficient about living in Moscow :(((( (our scene is up and coming but still got ways to go….)

  6. Yum! These all look incredible. I really loved San Fran last time I visited btu I think my favourite was the Ghiradelli Chocolate shop, it’s hard to beat that chocolate – yummmm

  7. Abigail says:

    All of these dishes look amazing but the pizza in particular had me drooling! I’m such a sucker for a good margerita!

    Abigail Alice x | Latest The Best Nude Liquid Lipsticks!

    • Abigail says:

      I had no idea leaving my URL in a comment wasn’t allowed on your blog since I can’t find where it advises against that and I’ve never had any other bloggers tell me that before. Rest assured I won’t comment again.

  8. Ugh. THIS POST. Bad enough I’m reading it just before dinner. I totally bet you can recreate the b-sprout salad. (I feel this way about a salad I had in Sweden, though I have yet to make it work.) If you’re into cooking, get yourself a food processor. I put it off for years, and I cook nearly every day. Dumb! It’ll shred up those b-sprouts in seconds. I have yet to try tapioca and that dessert looks like the perfect place to start. And don’t get me started on dim sum. I’m salivating just thinking about it! Gotta get back to San Francisco…

    (P.S. next time you go back to Chicago, let me know. There’s a Chinatown food tour that’s simply one of the best I’ve ever been on.)

  9. Sophie says:

    Yummmm! San Fransisco is one of my favourite places in North America!
    You also look so much like Marion Cotillard – beautiful!!

    http://www.travelmatters.co/

  10. Liz says:

    When I go to SF in three weeks I will be indulging in delicious Cabernets and the best burger in the city at Spruce in the Presidio. It’s insane and my mouth is watering just thinking about it!

    http://www.california2catalonia.com

  11. Jennifer says:

    Wow, all the photos of delicious food has made me want to drag my boyfriend out to dinner tomorrow night! A road trip in the USA is currently on our bucket list so I will need to revisit this page when we are in California – I can’t believe brussel sprout salad actually exists, and more to the point, is tasty!

  12. K says:

    San Francisco is still my favorite US city…..I’m headed there in a month, so I appreciate the post Kate. Have you ever made a post on your favorite US city?

  13. Rikka says:

    As a foodie and multi-time visitor to the Bay Area, I’m lovin’ this post!!

    If you go a little outside the Bay Area to Palo Alto, there’s a great N’Awlins-style cajun restaurant called Nola.

    Also in Santa Cruz there’s a little mexican food pop-up resturant on the sidewalk called Cafe Campasino. Also highly recommend.

    I went to both these places when I got back to the states after 15 months of international travel – Both were a great reintroduction to American food! Cajun and Mexican are two things you just get get overseas. And when they are available they’re simply not as good as in the USA!!

  14. Kate says:

    Oh my god, this all looks absolutely amazing!

  15. Brittany says:

    Well great, now I’m starving!

  16. Canolis are my all time favorite desert! Looks like a DELICIOUS trip you had there, Kate!

  17. Miranda says:

    Travelling here in may 🙂 can’t wait ahhhh

  18. You definitely ate well in the Bay! I always love seeing where people eat when they visit my neck of the woods. Oh and definitely adding Pican to my list.

  19. Felix says:

    This is an awesome place, I can’t wait to get there. I also love this food

  20. Megan says:

    Ooooh, I LOVE chorizo AND octopus, and I live in San Jose, so looks like I’ll have to try Shakewell soon. 🙂

  21. Paul Brekke-Miesner says:

    Sounds like the Bay Area treated you well. All the amazing new restaurants in Oakland are off the hook.

  22. Glen says:

    Oh wow, it all looks delicious. Seems like there is a lot of variety in the area. It’s good to have so many options to choose from.

  23. Cecilia S. says:

    It all sounds very good! these goodies represent a reason enough to make me want to visit San Francisco.

  24. Liz Cheng says:

    Oh my! This is an amazing list! Bottega in SF in one of my favorite places! As someone who grew up in Hong Kong, one of my favorite things about the Bay Area is the amazing selection of Chinese/Taiwanese food we have here. my recommendations may not be fancy or famous but they taste so authentic that it reminds me of home.
    Next time you’re here, try 8th street Cafe in Oakland China Town for authentic Hk style food; East Ocean Restaurant in Alameda for dim sum; Taste of Formosa for Taiwanese food in SF; and MaMa Ji’s for super good Sze Chuan food in the Castro District! You’ll love it! 🙂
    Liz

  25. Moving to SF soon and will definitely have to try out all of these!

  26. Diana says:

    Everything looks so good! I was just there two weeks ago. Too bad I didn’t see this sooner!

  27. Grecel says:

    Everything looks good. May I recommend the next time you are in the San Francisco Bay Area to try doing a chocolate tour in the city. There are definitely great chocolate being made by artisans in San Francisco that is not Ghirardelli.

  28. Apurva says:

    Nice options! Bay area holds a special place in my heart. During my stay there the most loved food for me was Crab Sandwich @ San Francisco Pier 39. And also, Smoked Salmon @ The Fish Market.

    I miss California even more now after reading this post.

  29. Alexx34 says:

    Hello! One of the best hotels in SF is Grand Hyatt hotel. It is a 4 star one, but it offers really nice rooms and services. You can book a room there using http://grand-hyatt-san-francis… website, it is very easy. I stayed in it when I travelled to San Francisco last summer, and everything was really great, as for me. I can totally recommend you this option

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