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Several years ago, I was in Paris and perusing the books at Shakespeare and Company. As I lost myself in the colorful aisles, I came across a modest paperback: Moonlight in Odessa by Janet Skeslian Charles.
I was intrigued by this city I knew so little about, and after reading the back of the book, I decided to buy it. And while I liked the idea of the plot, about a twenty-something woman who tries to carve out a life for herself in Odessa and starts working part time at a mail-order bride company, it was the description of the city that won me over.
Odessa: a place where the streets were lined with candy-colored buildings, where people had conversations about classical music and art and literature, where cooking for friends and family was the greatest way to express your love, where women wore sky-high heels with miniskirts and clattered down the street. From that point on, I knew I had to visit.
Just as Bloodline brought me to the Florida Keys, it was Moonlight in Odessa that brought me to Odessa.
Did Odessa live up to my expectations? It went far and beyond. I fell madly in love with Odessa from the moment I arrived, and it’s one of my favorite destinations in years.
I arrived in Odessa on a bus from Chisinau, Moldova. After a quick stop at an ATM, I jumped in a taxi, agreed on a price that was likely far too much, and whirled down the pastel streets.
I was dumbfounded. I knew it would be beautiful, but how could Odessa be this beautiful?
I went out for a stroll with my camera and soon learned that Odessa is cheap. Ukraine is cheap overall. I knew it wouldn’t be too expensive, but I was shocked at just how low the prices were. Until this trip, I thought Albania and Macedonia had the cheapest prices in Europe; I soon realized Ukraine had them beat.
When Russia annexed Ukraine’s Crimea a few years ago (or as Russian loyalists would say, they took back what was rightfully theirs), Ukraine’s currency took a significant hit. What was already cheap became even more so.
Some examples of prices? I would regularly have a multi-course meal with wine for about $8.
A latte in a fancy cafe would cost around 95 cents.
The most expensive tickets at the opera? Around $10.
My boutique hotel room that would run for at least $250 if it were in New York? $42.
But on that note, there’s nothing to be worried about in terms of Russia and safety. There is no violence or military presence in Odessa. You wouldn’t know anything was happening.
You can’t travel to Crimea overland from Ukraine, and while Ukrainians now need a special permit in order to enter, non-Ukrainians can visit at their will. Flights from Moscow to Crimea are now considered domestic.
Today Odessa is just as safe as any other European city.
When I heard there was a bakery called Make My Cake, I had to stop by — there’s a Make My Cake in Harlem (and they make some of the absolute best cupcakes in the city, so if you’re in New York, you should come visit). Rather than cupcakes, though, this place was all about macarons.
Including black truffle macarons.
It sounds crazy, but trust me — they were amazing. Who knew that black truffles tasted so delicious with a bit of sugar? And each macaron cost less than a dollar, because why would you ever pay more than that in Ukraine?
On the more traditional end, I tried my first Ukrainian food at a restaurant called Kumanets. If you look for traditional food in Odessa, that’s the first restaurant that pops up, and you should go. It’s touristy as hell, with servers in traditional Ukrainian costumes, but the food is delicious and they have a lot of traditional Odessa dishes.
If you’re going to get the vareniki, or dumplings, get them with cabbage. Those are most traditional.
I also got my first taste of borscht — a new addiction that I would order nearly every day I was in Ukraine.
The next day, I met my guide Olga from JayWay Travel for a walking tour of Odessa with some food stops along the way.
I don’t often do private tours — it’s usually a group tour, a solo wander, or nothing — but I learned so much about Odessa from Olga that I was nearly bereft at how much I would have missed without her.
For starters, Odessa has been home to a multi-ethnic population for centuries. And if you’re Jewish and of Russian descent, chances are high that your family came from Odessa. Jewish culture is strong here to this day: I asked Olga what a traditional Odessa dish would be, and she replied, “Gefilte fish.”
Beyond the Jews, Odessa is home to Greeks, Turks, Armenians, Poles, Bulgarians, and of course Russians. All of these ethnicities melding together have made for some wild history — and some very interesting and surprisingly Mediterranean-influenced cuisine.
I had expected Odessa to be full of six foot tall blonde women, but it wasn’t like that at all. People were shorter, darker, and heavier than you might expect.
How amazing is this heart? I’m not a fan of love locks in general because they weaken bridges, destroy the look of architecture, and at this point, they’re such a cliché.
But Odessa has figured out the perfect solution. Instead of a bridge, they have a heart sculpture designated specifically for love locks. This way you can lock a symbol of your love to an icon in the city without destroying a bridge in the process!
Every city needs to do this.
Odessa is famous for its courtyards, Olga told me. She took me into several of them and pointed out wells that dated back generations, the only places where you could get fresh water in the city. Today many of them had old cars.
I loved this tiny house and its plants, just sitting in the middle of the courtyard!
And some courtyards are home to elegant restaurants.
The Potemkin Steps are one of the symbols of Odessa. The steps are actually an optical illusion — they’re much wider at the bottom than they are at the top. This was meant to give the appearance of a much larger staircase and intimidate any wayward sailor who found himself in the city!
The steps were actually under construction during my visit, but I was able to get this photo across the street from them.
There were happy yellow buses…
Teenagers out with their friends…
Poles covered in urgent advertisements…
Red brick houses topped with yellow…
Proud Ukrainians marching in the streets…
Outdoor restaurants with gauze-covered tents…
Indoor arcades lined in Baroque sculptures…
And picture-perfect street cafes.
I was so in love with Odessa. My heart swelled with every step I took.
And then a rogue hailstorm hit! I’ve never seen hail that big or loud in my life!
Roughly the size of canned hams, am I right?
Afterward I couldn’t believe that the walking street completely flooded! It was fine a few hours later, though.
Checking out the Catacombs
Also worth seeing are the catacombs. But unlike Paris and Rome, the catacombs are not filled with bones.
Here in Odessa, they were home to the resistance against the Nazis during World War II. The resistance lived down here, plotted and fought. People would stay underground for months at a time.
At one point, there were seven children living in the catacombs. This was their classroom.
Yes, that’s literal cave art about Hitler. This image is of a Nazi coming back injured. Translation: you’re losing the war!
The catacombs were also where Olga handled a mansplainer with aplomb. As we were waiting to go in, a tall hefty man in a navy blue pinstripe suit (with a royal purple pinstripe shirt…what?) said something to her in Ukrainian. She smiled weakly and ignored him. He then said a second thing to her, then a third. From the expression on her face I knew she was dealing with a mansplainer.
“What did he say to you?” I asked once we were inside.
“Oh, he said, ‘You can’t go in there, it’s locked.’ Then he said, ‘It’s too early for you to buy your tickets, they don’t have money.’ Then he said, ‘You’re not allowed to go in there.’ And I said, ‘I’m here five days a week,’ and walked in.” Of course. He didn’t believe she could possibly be a guide; he assumed he knew more than she did.
I sympathized with Olga and told her my own experience: on my flight from Bucharest to Chisinau, the man next to me kept explaining to me what happens when you fly on a small plane. I had given him the same weak smile while thinking, “I fly for a living, pal.“
No matter how far you travel, some things stay the same.
Odessa brought me so much joy. I felt so light and happy the whole time I was there, almost laughing for no reason. And as a result, I’m worried that this blog post didn’t convey enough information about Odessa itself. Does it make you actually want to visit? Or am I just a crazy lady distracted by pretty things that made her happy?
This shy balloon seller made me happy.
This orange bicycle made me happy.
This little pink car made me happy.
These little yellow chairs made me so happy.
Odessa, you were pure joy to me. Thank you for bringing such a big smile to my face.
Essential Info: In Ukraine I was a guest of JayWay Travel, a boutique Central and Eastern European travel company, for a custom itinerary they built for me with hotels, transfers, and tours. They do custom trips so whatever you’re looking for, reach out to them. It was so nice to not have to worry about transfers, and I was grateful that Olga went into the airport with me and found out where I was to depart (one terminal is currently under construction) — with the language barrier, I never would have been able to do that on my own. Contact them directly for tours or other bookings.
I stayed at the Hotel Milano, a brand new boutique hotel ideally located close to the walking street. I highly recommend it — it was extremely comfortable and modern, the staff were very helpful and spoke English well (a bit rare in Ukraine) and for $42 per night, it was a steal. (Olga pointed out that it’s a much louder neighborhood during the summer.) You can see more hotels in Odessa here.
There is a significant language barrier in Ukraine, but it wasn’t nearly as bad as I feared. In central Odessa lots of people in restaurants and hotels speak a bit of English. I do recommend learning Cyrillic, which is pretty easy to do. It will make your life so much easier when you can read what’s in front of you, as many words are similar to English.
I visited Odessa in May, which was the perfect time. Odessa is a beach city and gets crazy in the summer months — which means it gets crowded, there are lots of late night parties with loud music, and older foreign men swarm the city searching for wives.
Moonlight in Odessa is out of print, but you can still get it for Kindle or secondhand.
Don’t visit Odessa without travel insurance. Whether you get appendicitis and need to be hospitalized, or your phone gets stolen, or an injury means you need to cancel all or part of your trip, travel insurance will help you out. I use and recommend World Nomads as travel insurance for trips to Ukraine.
Many thanks to JayWay Travel for hosting me throughout Ukraine. They paid for my hotels, airport transfers, and tours; I paid for flights, meals, and everything else. All opinions, as always, are my own.
39 thoughts on “In Odessa, Romance and Grandeur”
A post about the pretty things that makes you happy feels more legit than a bunch of info I could get on Wikipedia — and still I learned so much from this! I absolutely want to see it for myself now. Did you happen to make it to the beaches? I’m not really a “beach person,” but it looks like the city has so much waterfront on a map, it made me curious about how much of it might be commercial, residential, or industrial.
I actually missed the beaches — there was too much to see in town! I have heard that they’re nice but obviously not Thailand nice.
wow the architecture in Odessa is absolutely beautiful! i would love to wander through the pastel streets =o)
I had no idea that Odessa was so beautiful – and I live in Russia, and Odessa is sort of a very well-known entity in terms of cultural references and history, but not at all visually so. Just… WOW.
Also, it reminded me of some quaint, quiet corners of central Moscow – ones that never make it to postcards or tourist itineraries.
That’s more than enough encouragement to get me to Moscow already!
Glad you enjoyed your time there! Ukraine needs tourism badly, and is very much under the radar. It’s my favorite country in the world, but I’m biased- I have family all over the western regions, and spent a month there in 2013.
I can’t pretend to understand or adequately explain the complexities of the politics there, but it’s been a very hard road for Ukrainian loyalists. They’re constantly under Russia’s thumb and have tried to break free of that, trying to align themselves closer with the EU in 2013; the president backing down at the last minute created the uproar, destabilization (ultimately giving Russia the opportunity to invade a few months later). Several pro-Ukrainian protestors were shot and killed at Independence Square by their own government. There’s still a war going on in parts of Eastern Ukraine (but as you said, Odessa, Kiev, Lviv, etc are super safe and fine).
All of this has contributed to the inflation of the hryvnia, making it cheaper for us, but at the expense of its own citizens. It seems to be turning around, though… actually, this month, visa-free travel to the EU for Ukrainians became possible. Before, it was way too expensive for most Ukrainians to do so.
ANYWAYS. Ukraine is awesome. More people need to visit! I can’t wait to go back this summer.
I had no idea that Ukrainians can now travel to the EU visa-free. That’s great news! It’s so cool that you love Ukraine as much as, if not more, than I do now!
While I ain’t never heard of nobody who didn’t like Odessa, your photos show why it’s such an enchanting city.
I had a chance to visit Odessa when I was in Moldova and Transnistria and decided against it – because I felt that two or three days wouldn’t do it justice. Also, it was in July, and I knew about the parties.
I will rather move there for a few months in fall to really et to know the city.
And I agree with you on love locks:
What a fantastic post! You’ve made me want to got there. The photos are almost magical. No wonder it made you happy.
I grew up in Transnistria and ventured to Odessa very frequently as a child- for the beaches and to see family and friends. It has been over twenty years since I last visited and your article reminded me that I would love to come back one day. Have you visited the famous Privoz market? it used to be a major city “establishment” back in the day. I did an organized bus tour “Literary Odessa” once and was completely taken with all the literary talent that spent time in the city starting with Pushkin in exile. Thanks for stirring up all the good memories, Kate!
You grew up in Transnistria?! WOW! That must have been interesting! I wish I had made it to that market.
I honestly never thought to visit Ukraine. I had a roommate some years back (named Olga) and she did not miss her country one bit. She also didn’t talk much about it, except when it came to food. I was introduced to cold borscht soup and sardines over sliced bread. Your pictures and your passion for Odessa has really inspired me! I’m going to look into visiting – especially since it’s inexpensive, and not really a tourist “hot spot.” Thank you!
I really hope that you get there, Melissa!
Love to hear about such an exciting ‘under the radar’ destination as Laryssa put it. Barcelona, where I live, is wonderful but bursting at the seams with tourism in the summer.
Completely charmed by your photos and description, would love to lose myself in those old courtyards!
I love this piece, Kate! Your photography is so beautiful. I’ve always wanted to go to Ukraine for Chernobyl (really enjoyed your snapchats from there!) while that was all I had really thought about seeing, your post has definitely inspired me to spend a bit more time exploring other areas of the country!
Good! You will love Ukraine! It’s a special country.
This whole post made me happy!
This post proves my point about eastern Europe! I think it still has a bad reputation in the minds of people, however, they don’t realize the streets are clean. The buildings are beautiful and the atmosphere is fantastic. What a great post!
I hope Belarus lives up to this reputation later this year. 😉
So glad to see Ukraine getting some travel love! I’ve been living in Kyiv for a bit over a year, and I recently decided to stay an extra four months because I just haven’t gotten enough of it yet! Since I was living here, I read Moonlight in Odessa after you recommended it. Very enjoyable read, and it introduced a lot of interesting topics specific to Ukraine.
While it’s true that non-Ukrainians can travel to Crimea through Russia, this is considered illegal by the Ukrainian government. This was why Russia’s chosen contestant was not allowed to participate in Eurovision — she had performed in Crimea after the annexation. It’s true nobody may know if you choose this route, but if they do find out, you might get a three year ban from entering Ukraine.
As far as I can understand (and someone can chime in here if they have more info), but it’s very hard to get permission to cross from mainland Ukraine to Crimea as a foreigner unless you have gotten permission as a journalist.
Just some things to think about if planning a trip to the region. Thanks for brining some spotlight to Ukraine, Kate!
I did not know that, Amy — thank you so much for sharing! I hadn’t heard that about the Eurovision contestant.
I am so thrilled that you read Moonlight in Odessa — it’s a special book.
If you’re missing Ukrainian food you should try Veselka, in the East Village – delicious borscht and dumplings and one of my favorite restaurants in the city!
Ooh, thank you for that! I know I’ll be there! Definitely not Ukrainian prices, though…
What a beautiful article. It is very easy to read and I knew so little about Odessa. I’d love to visit it one day. Best regards, Angela.
I was really enjoying reading this article because you rarely hear about Ukraine as a travel destination and I’m keen to visit in the future. But the part about the ‘mansplaining’ kind of soured it for me. Why is gender relevant here? I think both men and women have the potential to patronise.
Well, Alton, as a man, I’m afraid you haven’t experienced it yourself. It happens to women on a constant basis.
A word of advice — when someone tells you something is happening, whether it’s a woman, a person of color, an LGBT person, etc — don’t insist that she’s wrong. Listen to her and learn.
How do you know he hasn’t experienced it himself Kate? Women can be very patronizing to men, as you have just demonstrated with your rely to Alton. You should heed your own advice and learn to listen.
thanks for the katesplanation
What a beautiful place! The most important fact is that Odessa still holds their tradition and historical importance. The silent, calm atmosphere will attract any traveler to come again and again.
Beautiful photos. Thanks a lot for sharing everything in detail.
Have you a nice week ahead.
Wow! I haven’t heard or read much about Odessa but now I want to visit!! Your writing and images captured so much of its beauty. Hopefully I can make it over there one day.
That’s my goal — to get people to visit places they never would have considered otherwise!
I came across your site by accident,and what an enjoyable accident it was!! I was captivated by your description of Odessa and purchased the novel “Moonlight over Odessa”. I can’t wait to read it.!!!
I most likely will not be able to make the trip myself…..I almost felt like I was. Many thanks.
I’m so glad, Lori! I hope you enjoy the book!
Thanks for sharing such a lovely article, and I’m delighted a solo female traveller had such a wonderful trip to an amazing city.
Sadly, too many people miss out on the wonders of Ukraine thinking it’s just for stag nights and wife-hunters, but it’s truly a special country and Odessa is one of many amazing cities there.
The architecture is stunning isn’t it? I stayed there in an old presedential standard hotel that was simply surreally good and luxurious, and as you say, the prices are super-cheap.
History is a big thing in Odessa and I’m glad you touched on the multi-culturalism there, as it’s certainly more cosmpolitan than other UA cities.
Lovely photos too – you really pick out the best of everything, thanks!
Keep up the great work Kate, travel well 🙂
Thank you so much, Shaun! So glad to hear you enjoyed Odessa as much as I did.
After seeing your pics (yes, they do make me want to visit – so pretty), I should bump up this book on my To Read list — thanks. I have a copy somewhere.
Please do! It’s such a great book.
I grew up in western Ukraine but my mom went there for vacation when she was a teen. I guess I should go back to the Eastern side. My mom always talks about visiting Crimea. I have been back once to see where I grew up and didn’t think I would go back. Thanks for the post and I’m glad you liked it!
I’m glad you liked it, Nadya!