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A few years ago, I watched the episode of An Idiot Abroad where Karl was forced to climb Mount Fuji in Japan. Karl did his usual grumbling as he hiked up all night long — but was rewarded by the most incredible sunrise. He was indifferent to it, of course.
That sunrise was on TV, but it was enough to take my breath away — hundreds of rays of pink and gold and red seeming to shine down from each and every direction. I have never seen a sunrise like that — anywhere.
I didn’t end up climbing Mount Fuji and seeing that famous sunrise for myself — but I was stunned, again and again, by the sheer quality of the light in Japan. Maybe it was the lack of significant air pollution, maybe it was good timing on my part, maybe my mind has just become more attuned to light as I’ve gotten more into photography — but I can’t deny that Japan has some of the most consistently outstanding light I’ve ever seen.
I couldn’t think of a better way to commence my posts about Japan than with my favorite pictures of this unforgettable light.
Shibuya Crossing, Tokyo
Shibuya Crossing is arguably the most famous traffic crossing in the world. Hundreds of people cross half a dozen enormous crosswalks whenever the light turns green. How many people does that total by the end of the day? Tens of thousands? (And yes, cars do pass there, too!)
Getting to Shibuya just in time for sunset gave me a beautiful pink and purple backdrop for the silver buildings against the frenetic crossing.
Yasaka Shrine, Kyoto
Yasaka Shrine was one of my favorite places to visit in Kyoto. It had a variety of temples and shrines, it was conveniently located in Gion, it had a mix of tourists and worshipers coming to pray, and unlike most places in Kyoto, it was free to visit.
Now — look at that picture. That bridge is naturally gray. Though this photo is edited and retouched — as all my photos are — it’s true that the evening light turned that gray bridge bright red. Those aren’t red leaves on the trees, nor is that swan naturally red — the light was just that good.
As soon as I came back to the main shrine at Yasaka, I immediately took off running from my new friend Fumi — I had to capture that shrine in front of that sunset. And I knew that I had only a few minutes at the very most.
Good thing I ran. It took about a dozen shots before I had one that I liked. This is one of my favorite shots from all of Japan.
“What do you think the writing on these lanterns says?” Fumi, a former student of my friend Annette, asked me.
“Prayers? Or blessings?” I guessed.
“They’re the names of the people who gave the most money,” she said with a smile.
I love it. Just when you think that Japan is more different than anywhere else you’ve ever been, at some point it turns out to be just like anywhere else in the world, broadcasting the names of their most prolific donors.
Dotonbori, Osaka
Osaka is a city of bright lights and neon — especially in its wild Dotonbori neighborhood. The sunset, in its many shades of blue and pink, brought out bright neon light, reflected up from the river.
Osaka is definitely doable as a day trip from Kyoto, but you’re missing the best part of the city if you leave before nightfall. Few cities comes to life at night as vibrantly as Osaka.
Lake Ashinoko, Hakone Region
My brief 24-hour journey to the Hakone region was a bit of a disappointment — though I had had sunny skies every day in Japan so far, that day I was threatened with stormy skies. Mount Fuji was completely enshrouded in clouds, and the outdoorsy tours weren’t as appealing in bad weather.
But at one moment, when I rode the pirate ship across Lake Ashinoko, the sun peered out just long enough to illuminate the shore, the surrounding mountains engulfed in darkness. It didn’t even look real.
Roppongi, Tokyo
Roppongi was another area that didn’t quite live up to the hype. I expected a wild, thumping nightlife with tons of stripclubs, angry bouncers, and expats from around the world pouring out of doors, drunk on sake, but I didn’t see a trace of anything like that! It was one of the quietest Saturday nights I’ve seen — then again, maybe things pick up there after 9:00, when I left.
That said, being there at sunset was a perfect opportunity to catch Tokyo’s famous taxis against a periwinkle sky.
Ueno, Tokyo
And to finish it off, a deep cobalt sky in Tokyo’s Ueno neighborhood. It’s so difficult capturing the bright blues in the sky as soon as the sun sets, but when you can, it’s incredibly rewarding.
Japan is a rewarding destination for so many reasons — the kind, polite, and every-helpful people; the delicious and painstakingly prepared food; the peaceful and beautiful temples, the jaw-dropping technology present in daily life — but for me, the greatest surprise was the beauty of that light.
Great article about Japan. What really amazes me about this destination is that almost all of the historical sites are still used for their original purposes while remaining open to the public.
I haven’t been to Japan in almost two years now but i love all of them and these pictures make me want to travel back ASAP!
The Shibuya Crossing one is incredible! I remember being really underwhelmed by it though – it looks busier in Lost in Translation 🙂 Also, I had the same experience in Roppongi! Boring! And I was out late, and with a few Japanese friends….we still didn’t find much to do.
Love the blue hour photos of Tokyo and Osaka. I have always wanted to go to Japan, now I want to go even more.
I love all three from Yasaka. I’m going to Kyoto in the Autumn so I think I’ll add that to the list. You should have seen the sky here on Sunday. Even I was able to take an amazing photo and that’s saying something!
My favourite is definitely Yasaka Shrine, Kyoto. Just looking at it is making me feel peaceful! Lovely photos.
The shot of Osaka is my favourite for sure! Great shots… x
The first four pictures are my favorite. Okay, I basically love them all. I hope this is the first of many Japan posts. Thanks for sharing!
Happy travels 🙂
You captured the light really well. I notice when there is something special in the light, too. Have you ever been to Cornwall? I loved the light there, but I’m sure Japan is much better…
Wow, love the shot from Dotonbori! I skipped Osaka when I was in Japan last year, just not enough time for there and Hiroshima. But I like leaving places to come back to later.
I badly want to goto Japan. It’s been a dream of mine since I was young. I was considering going there at the start of my one year jaunt around SE Asia and Oz but worried that it would soak up too much of my money too quickly. Not sure when ill get to go :-/
Hi Kate, I am glad you enjoyed Japan it’s such an amazing country. Yes 9pm at Roppongi is too way too early, but I also think that the area has changed: less foreigners and less dodgy than before:)
I totally agree with you I am not such a big fan of this one day trip to Hakone, better things to do and see around Tokyo according to me.
If ever you come back to Kyoto one of my favourite temple for picture taking is Fushimi Inari, full of red tori!
See I’ve had a thing for Japan for a while now and I’d never even thought about how special a sunrise or even sunset is over there. Thank you for reminding me to appreciate it once I’m there!
Great photos Kate, tough to pick a favourite as they are all so unique. If I HAD to choose I think I would choose the Bridge, it is surreal!
Hot damn, that really is some good light in ALL of the photos. I think the Shibuya Crossing one is my favorite, though! I’m so awful at getting candid photos with people just going about their lives, so that component combined with the light makes for an excellent shot.
Wow – I really like all of these photos, but especially the last one. That blue sky is amazing! Japan is definitely my first country of choice to travel to when I finally make it to Asia.
Wow, these are all gorgeous!
I’ve never had an urge to go to Japan (I don’t know why — it’s just never appealed to me), but that’s been changing lately. These photos make me want to go even more!
Your photography is looking awesome! I would’ve been happier believing the lanterns were prayer or blessings, oh well!
I have heard that its difficult to find many people that speak English in Japan, did you have any issues? (similar to France)
I definitely agree – the light looks amazing. Can’t wait to visit Japan someday
Love the Yasaka Shrine. There’s this temple in Taiwan. And for the life of me, I can’t remember where. But there’s the red paper lamps hanging up. It’s the most gorgeous set of red I’ve ever seen. very vibrant. wish I could attach a photo.
Japan is my favourite country in the world! It’s the perfect mix of tradition and modernity! The night lights of Japan are mesmerizing. I need to visit again this Christmas!
Beautiful shots, I can’t wait to start traveling to places that have a bit more interesting architecture then here. Although here (Dominican Republic) the wooden houses have there cultural feel it doesn’t give off the same effect as some of the building in Japan.
Even with all of the “light pollution” from the city’s advertisements and signs, the sky is still so beautiful. Amazing hues in all of these photos, and great captures Kate!
That is indeed some beautiful light and indeed, well captured. And BTW, I love “An Idiot Abroad”.
Beautiful photos! I just cannot wait to start of my travels in Japan next year. The photo of the bridge is my favourite here for sure.
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I am probably going to stop off in Tokyo on my way to the UK later this year. I can’t wait. Japan looks so awesome.
Glad I found this post Kate! We are heading to Japan as part of a longer journey in January, so looking for inspiration which I found here!
Looking forward to seeing the incredible light you talk about, as well as all the neon lights as well!
The Yasaka Shrine is my personal favorite out of these photos, mostly because I’m a sucker for natural light. How wonderful to see this. I am currently in India for the year, and would love to see a similar photo essay about the light of different cities and desert regions.
Love the close up of all the beautiful lanterns!
I’ve been to so many different part of Japan from Roppongi to Hiroshima and you captured the beauty of Japan wonderfully!!!
Great post! I’ve been to Tokyo but that was only for an airport stop over. Would like to visit some time soon!
Yes ,Japan is one of the more culturally secure places I’ve travelled. Luckily I travelled to Japan 4 times in last four yrs though I consider myself still unlearned
japan has tried to retain as much of its 2-4000’yrs of modern age culture more than most , however the west couldn’t combine the old and new as we place values / profits on everything so we cannot retain our past
Good point on the light, indeed…
To me, Japan felt like a totally different planet. Everything was so different.
Truly beautiful light. I am going to Japan this summer and will be reading all on your posts. Thanks for the insights!
Wow! Tokyo reminds me so much of New York City. Japan wasn’t too high on my list of places to visit but your photos of the shrine in Kyoto and Lake Ashinok have definitely bumped it closer to the top. I guess it’s time to start looking for some cheap flights!