The Most Glorious Spirit: A Week of Gin in the UK

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Greenalls Gins

My gin trip to the UK was one of the most interesting trips I have ever taken. I spent time with fascinating (and often off-the-wall) creative entrepreneurs, learning about how they ditched the 9-5 to make booze with their buddies. I visited stunning new regions of Britain and a few old favorites.

And, of course, there was the gin tasting! Everyone has been asking me if I spent the week boozing nonstop. Not at all. It actually wasn’t a big drinking week, but I had little tastes of so many different kinds of gin.

Here is a taster — a sip, if you will — of my week exploring British gin in England.


First off: gin is all about the botanicals! That distinctive tree-like taste (that I always complained about in college and learned to appreciate in my late twenties) comes from juniper, pictured above, which is the one required botanical for gin.

Gin is quick and easy to produce — most often it’s made from local grain in just a few days. But the botanicals are what sets it apart from other spirits.


For most distillers, there are two other required botanicals: coriander (a.k.a. cilantro in the US) and angelica root. That’s coriander seed above. Master distiller Joanne Moore calls these, along with juniper, her Holy Trinity.

Gin Botanicals

Beyond those three? GO CRAZY. Use any botanicals you’d like!

That photo above is from Liverpool Gin, and they have a rose gin blend.

Greenalls‘ Opihr, one of my favorite gins of the week, is dark and spicy with lime and cinnamon.

Warner Edwards is a fan of elderflower, both in their regular gin and a special elderflower blend.

Most interestingly, Whitley Neill creates a South African-inspired gin with baobab fruit powder and Cape gooseberries! (Also interestingly, founder Johnny Neill is practically gin royalty — his family has been in the business for generations.)

Orange Rind

I’ve always been a fan of the combination of gin and orange — and many of the UK gins I tried included orange, as citrus is a very important flavor in gin. There seems to be a great divide between the distillers — some prefer Valencia oranges; others rave about Sevilla oranges. Either way, Spain rules.

(If you’re American, oranges come from Florida; if you’re British, oranges come from Spain!)

Botanicals Cooking

Botanicals cooking in the still. I know it looks gross, but trust me, it smells like Christmas. Somebody needs to make a pie out of gin botanicals! I could totally do that…

Berry Brothers

Berry Brothers and Rudd, in London, is the oldest wine and spirits shop in the UK. It’s well worth a visit to check out some of the amazing stuff they have on offer!

There is so much history here. Napoleon used to have secret meetings in the back and ladies used to come to weigh themselves on the giant scales. (More recently, Matt Damon insisted on weighing himself on the scales.)

And not all of it is expensive. In fact, if you live in London, they suggest going in and buying a dozen or so decently priced, high quality bottles so that you’ll be stocked up for months if you get invited to dinner or someone’s home and you won’t end up buying a crappy grocery store bottle at the last minute.

I like that idea. I think I’ll do that myself when I get an apartment in the spring.

Paxton & Whitfield Cheese

London’s Paxton and Whitfield is not just a cheese shop — it’s the Royal Family’s cheese shop. (No, I did not ask for a list of Prince Harry’s favorites and then lay slices of them on my naked body in front of Kensington Palace. I mean…not this week.)

You all know I’m a cheese fiend, and I had what may have been the best cheese of my life here: Cropwell & Bishop Stilton. I’m not even a big Stilton fan, but it was so delicious I nearly cried!

Fortnum & Mason

Now, how about doing your weekly grocery shopping here? Fortnum & Mason is a lot like the famously expensive Harrod’s, and THE QUEEN gets her groceries here. We also sampled several of their gins.

Kate and Master Distiller Joanne Moore

I’m always thrilled to meet accomplished women at the top of their game. This is Joanne Moore — the world’s first known female international master gin distiller. She works developing gins at Greenalls in Cheshire, not far from where I used to live in Chester.

Succeeding in a male-dominated field is a challenge the likes of which most men can’t fathom. And at one point this week, I met a distiller who made no fewer than three sexist comments over the course of my short visit. (I called him out over the first comment; I was in disbelief by the second and third comments.)

If that’s what I got on a brief visit, I can’t imagine how bad Joanne gets it from the “good old boys.”

Ashness Bridge, Lake District

Between distillery visits, I was lucky enough to have a short private tour through the Lake District from Mountain Goat Tours. My priority was to get good scenery photos, so my grandfatherly guide Bob took me to his favorite photogenic spots, including Ashness Bridge.

Surprise Point, Lake District

The lookout at Surprise Point was unforgettable, too.

Amazing Sunset Lake District

But my most amazing photo came from Castlerigg Stone Circle as sunset gently rolled in. What an incredible place the Lake District is!

Lakes Distillery Tasting

One of the newest distilleries I visited was Lakes Distillery, an absolutely gorgeous building filled with even more gorgeous brand new stills, in the most gorgeous region of the Lake District. And gin isn’t the only thing on the menu — they distill their own whiskey and a shockingly smooth vodka as well.

As for master distiller John Drake, he was just a regular IT guy who woke up and realized he’d rather be making booze. Excellent.

Liverpool Gin Marketing

Here’s a question that lots of entrepreneurs overlook — how does your business make people feel? Liverpool Gin charts out everything they want people to experience, from laughter to Liver Birds.

Liverpool Gin and Tonics

Now, THAT is the way to enjoy a Liverpool G&T — on top of the city! Founder John O’Dowd and his lovely daughter took me out to lunch at Panoramic 34, with 360-degree views over the city.

And we sampled each of their gins — the regular, the Valencian Orange, and the Rose, each in a proper gin and tonic glass (that’s how you should be drinking them, by the way!).

Liverpool Valencia Orange Gin

My favorite? Easy. Valencian Orange.

Liverpool Reflections

I love this picture. THIS is Liverpool.

Kate at Strawberry Fields

I wanted to do some Beatles touring in Liverpool, and I had quite a day of fandom, including a selfie at Strawberry Fields! This was part of the Magical Mystery Tour.

Stay tuned for a full post on Beatlemania in Liverpool.

Junpier Berries

Did you know you can make a gin in your hand? Master Distiller Rob Dorsett of Langley Distillery pressed the botanicals into his palm — gin, coriander, angelica, lemon, cassia, and more — and I’ll be damned if it didn’t smell just like a glass of gin.

Cotswolds Distillery

How beautiful is this little house? It’s Cotswolds Distillery! Being there felt like a gentle hug on a sunny day.

I was also very surprised that it was run by an American! Dan Szor, a native New Yorker and former finance professional, fell in love with the Cotswolds and an Englishwoman (not necessarily in that order) and he started the distillery last year.

Cotswolds Espresso Martini Gin

Cotswolds Distillery Espresso Martini Gin is the single best gin I had all week and I HAVE BEEN KICKING MYSELF EVER SINCE FOR NOT BUYING A BOTTLE THEN AND THERE. Dan, any chance you can help a girl out?

Really, really regretting that. I could sit and sip that stuff neat all day long.

It’s probably better that way. Cailin and I would have opened the bottle next week at our Mallorca villa and finished it within an afternoon.

Marton-on-Marsh Cotswolds

I had never been to the Cotswolds before, and I quickly fell in love. Such perfect little English villages!

Scary Mail Slot Cotswolds

Well, that scary face is a way to keep the Jehovah’s Witnesses from knocking.

Afternoon Tea Cotswolds

Definitely an occasion for tea and scones.

Horse & Groom Salad

I consider the UK the country where I struggle the most to eat healthy, especially in smaller towns and more traditional regions. But at The Horse and Groom in the Cotswolds, I had a smashing salad: spinach, feta, chili peppers (!), sweet potatoes, fennel, and lemon vinaigrette.

Who knew that feta-chili-lemon was such a good combination?

Warner Edwards Gin Bottles

Design is a huge factor when you run your own distillery, as I learned at Warner Edwards in Northamptonshire.

Tom Warner is half of the founding team (the other half is his best friend, Welshman Sion Edwards, whom I sadly didn’t get to meet). Having been in the game for three years now, they’re one of the older craft gin distilleries in Britain.

They’ve also gone through one bottle redesign. Here Tom holds the old bottle on the left and the new bottle on the right. The first bottle was a bit too “blokey,” Tom says, and I agree. They wanted a softer, more appealing design, and they got a gorgeous, expensive-looking etched bottle.

Warner Edwards Rhubarb Gin

You can see the etching on this bottle a bit better. On the top is a W and E — one is Warner, one is Edwards; one is from Wales, one is from England; one is from the west, one is from the east; and so on.

Victoria’s Rhubarb Gin is actually QUEEN Victoria’s rhubarb gin! It’s made from rhubarb that used to grow in Queen Victoria’s garden!

Tom also pointed out that they’re now selling this gin at Fortnum & Mason, the current Queen’s grocer. How did Fortnum’s feel about that? “There was a lot of tight bums.”

(Oh, and I barely looked up from my phone on the whole visit because I was jotting down every word Tom said. The man is beautifully profane and a verbal gold mine. I can’t wait to share a collection of his one-liners.)


And finally, if you’re visiting London, you can take a class at the Ginstitute in Notting Hill. With my crazy schedule, I was only able to drop in briefly, but it was a fascinating look at the history and craft of gin — and includes lots of drinks!

The Ultimate British Gin Trip

Essential Info: Some of these distilleries offer visits and tastings, including Lakes Distillery, Cotswolds Distillery, and Warner Edwards Distillery. You can show up without an appointment at Lakes or Cotswolds, but call Warner Edwards to schedule a visit in advance. These are all still new distilleries, so check their sites for the latest information.

Mountain Goat offers a variety of private and group tours through the Lake District. Check out the full list here.

The Beatles Magical Mystery Tour is a bus tour that goes all over Liverpool. It costs £16.95 ($26) and includes admission to the Cavern Club is included.

Classes at the Ginstitute last three hours, include history, drinks, and gin creation, and cost £110 ($168).

This campaign was created and sponsored by the GREAT Britain campaign and UK Trade & Investment in partnership with iambassador. Adventurous Kate retains 100% editorial control and all opinions, as always, are my own.

Are you a gin drinker, an anglophile, or both?

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41 thoughts on “The Most Glorious Spirit: A Week of Gin in the UK”

  1. As a Brit and a gin fan, I can’t believe how much there is about this that I had no idea about! Thanks for the London recommendations. And “ginstitute” – fantastic name.

  2. It’s posts like this that make me want to be a travel blogger, seriously. Food, drink, history, tours, glorious countryside! Ugh, I am in vicarious heaven.

  3. Enjoyed following along with this trip on Snapchat! Really need to get my hands on a bottle of that espresso martini gin.

    Also, the stocking up method is always a good idea. (Plus, sometimes they’re a deal when you buy in bulk.) In Paris, Joe always kept a half dozen bottles of Champagne on hand — just in case 🙂

  4. damnnn ! Yes, love myself some Gin. I have even written poetry and included Gin in them ))

    I usually order a very dirty Martini, Gin! not vodka! )

    A true Bond Girl… ; )

  5. After reading this post I’m sad to say that I’m probably still in the ‘gin tastes like trees’ camp. Although I haven’t tried it since I became just slightly older and wiser. You might just have convinced me to give it another chance 😉

  6. What a great post. Filled with delights of the English countryside and other places. I’m a British person from Manchester you see so ahem!

    I’m a vodka & champagne drinker myself but every now & again, I do have the odd tipple, as my German mother-in-law is a G&T fan LOL!

    I didn’t know about the gin institiute but I’m always happy to learn…..!

  7. Great article Kate! Gin can be made with so many ingredients. But most people don’t know that gin is for cocktails – not on its own. Al in all it’s a great drink!

  8. Hey Kate, what an awesome trip, who doesn’t want to spend a week tasting different Gins in great locations! I never knew how Gin was made, you learn something new everyday. Thanks

  9. The Lake District and gin…can it get much better than that?! Sounds like such a unique journey for sure. Off to go find a good gin and tonic in London now!

  10. Gin is about the only sundowner beverage that still tastes good when there is no ice and our gin is slightly warm in the Sahara! This is what we drink every evening at gin o’clock on our women-only exotic trips. It’s what i prescribe after a hard days sightseeing… I am, after all, a “ginocologist”!

      1. Just a joke that me and my ginaholic friends like to use! One of the many reasons to drink gin – eg the quinine is good against malaria, it has herbs in it (so does that mean it’s healthy?)

  11. I’ve never liked gin, but I loved this post anyway :). It’s always neat to get a peek at how things are made.

    By the way, that shot of the glass with the orange peel is stunning! Although so is the one above it… alright basically all of your pictures are awesome.

  12. Looks like you had a brilliant time, particularly jealous of the Liverpool trip. I LOVE the Beatles. The way you describe the gin makes me really want to try some but as that’s not possible (teddy bears can’t drink gin) I will have to settle for insisting my Kids take me to England at some point (Boy promises we’ll go to the lake district one day and…. Nottingham)
    Have a nice day

  13. I’m not in the camp that likes gin (yet apparently as it seems to be an acquired taste…) but I do really enjoy a booze related tour story! I have a penchant for joining tours of things I don’t like (Guiness and whisky to name a few) so I wouldn’t be surprised if I write a post about this as well one day 😉

    1. I LOVE joining tours for things I’m not necessarily interested in, too! I heard a quote by Alex Trebek: “I’m curious about things I’m interested in, and things I’m not interested in.” I think that may be the secret to knowledge.

  14. Great article Kate and beautiful photos!
    I’m english and I love gin. It’s my favourite spirit. I much prefer it to vodka – why drink something so flavourless when you can have the same thing infused with delicious botanicals?

    When I was younger there was an impression that Gin was v for old ladies. But those people that judge were mostly drinking tasteless commercial lager so I learnt not to trust their opinions.

    I’ve been known to take my gin and tonic paraphernalia (complete with whole limes and a small knife) to illegal raves in grotty industrial warehouses before! I was pretty popular on those nights 😉

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