Friday, June 23rd, 2017

Camping with Bedouins in Wadi Rum


I was very much looking forward to the Wadi Rum leg of my trip to Jordan — because I would be camping in the desert!  As a girl who has camped her entire life, first went camping at twelve days old (!), and took her first steps in a tent (seriously), I knew camping with Bedouins in Wadi Rum would be a new frontier — and my family would love hearing about it, too!

This was certainly fancier camping than I had ever done — some might call it “glamping,” or glamorous camping.  I stayed at Captain’s Camp, one of the many camps in the desert.  (“This one has the best food,” Ibrahim told me.)

My tent certainly was fancier than the one in which I took my first steps.

(Cue everyone in my family saying, “That’s NOT camping!”)

Settled in, we went for a wild ride through Wadi Rum, my hilarious and slightly insane friend Hasan behind the wheel.  I’ve shared this video before, but it’s worth seeing again:

Throughout the week, Ibrahim had been telling me how much he loved Wadi Rum.  This was his favorite place in the world.  He came here to think, to reflect, and to be alone.

For that reason, Ibrahim suggested I take time by myself for awhile, to go on a walk on my own, and let the power of the desert come over me.

And I did.

Yes.  It really is a peaceful, awesome destination, and a great place to reflect on your life.

We then dropped into a Bedouin camp, got me dressed up like a Bedouin girl, and took about three dozen goofy pictures with Hasan.

I could pass as a Bedouin, right?

I’ve gone on and on about how kind and welcoming the people in Jordan are.  Well, you can add “generous” to the list — they let me keep the Bedouin dress and the purple, black and silver striped scarf, otherwise known as the “me-est” scarf ever! It was so nice of them.

Not a bad way to view a sunset.

We then headed back to camp for dinner. Just as Ibrahim promised, the food was indeed fabulous.

So, when you’re camping out in the middle of nowhere overnight and the electricity is rationed, there’s not a lot to do.

Enter the Captain’s Camp crew.  These hilarious guys got us up dancing, singing, telling stories, and drinking tea all night long!

In a country like Jordan where Muslim culture dominates, you shouldn’t wear skimpy clothing or drink alcohol.  You’re welcome to drink alcohol if you’re not a Muslim, but if it’s just you and your Muslim friends, why would you want to be the lone drunk at the table?

It amazed me how much socializing we did without taking a single drink during my week in Jordan.  I haven’t done that much socializing without alcohol since I was 19 and too shy to ask my older glee club friends to buy me booze.

The sky was studded with more stars than you could ever imagine.  I’ve only seen a night sky like that once in my life — on Don Det in Laos’s 4,000 Islands, another very isolated, rural destination.

And with that incredible sky, I went to bed.

The next morning, I was up at 5:00 AM to see the sunrise.  And I was immediately rewarded for my early wakeup call — Wadi Rum looks different at every time of day, with the rocks turning different brilliant colors — but nothing compares to the beauty of the sunrise colors.

The best way to view the sunrise?  On top of a camel!

As we set off, the sun turned the cliffs bright red underneath pink clouds before they mellowed out to a bright golden shade.

Here is the video I took from atop the camel, where you can see that those colors are real and not just super-doctored photos:

I keep saying over and over what a magical place Jordan is, and I apologize if it’s become a bit of a cliche at this point.  But it’s SO true.  Of all the memories I take from Wadi Rum, riding a camel and seeing the amazing colors of the sunrise is what I will remember the most.

Many thanks to the Jordan Tourism Board for hosting me in Jordan.  All opinions, as always, are my own.

Love that last photo? Check out my Jordan 2012 Calendar, on sale now!

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29 Responses to “Camping with Bedouins in Wadi Rum”
  1. jill says:

    Wadi Rum looks like a very magical place. You look great dressed in Boudouin and would pass as a local. Looking forward to more great adventures from Kate.

  2. Miranda says:

    This is probably my favorite yet of your posts! 🙂

  3. Sheila says:

    It really looks magical. I would love to see this place one day, and most of all camp out in the desert.

  4. I’m all for glamping and that food looks delicious!

  5. Kristasta says:

    What a beautiful post!

  6. Laith says:

    Welcome to Jordan, i’m glad you liked it… it’s really nice to see that you mean everything you said from th heart

  7. Alison says:

    Hasan seems like a right hoot, was laughing my head off at him clapping and singing away behind the wheel 🙂

  8. What an insanely amazing experience! Love the pics!!!

  9. April Neylan says:

    This is AMAZING! Thanks so much for sharing 🙂

  10. Rachael says:

    Hi Kate! Looks awesome!! We’re off to Jordan in March and didn’t think about sleeping in Wadi Rum until we saw this post…can you let us know which company/camp you went with? We’d love to do the same 🙂 The bf also appreciates good food hehe

  11. Hi haven’t been back to Wadi Rum in 35 years. It’s a magical place which you captured well!

  12. Amanda says:

    Wadi Rum sure does look amazing! I’ve always wanted to visit the desert and this looks like the perfect destination! Great post 🙂

  13. Madison says:

    I did the same thing this past summer! I absolutely loved it, the best experience in my life. Besides Wadi Mujib which is also in Jordan. Thank you for telling your stories! They are fabulous!

  14. Candy-Marie says:

    Is it possible to say how you met up with this group and how you went about organising this tour?

    I would love to do something like it and I am currently in Jordan.

    Thank you,


  15. Neil says:

    Lovely post Kate, some fantastic photography too! Did something similar this year myself, an amazing experience I could not agree more. Travel at its most captivating 🙂

  16. Sonia says:

    We had a great time in Wadi Rum too….Wish we could have seen the Milky Way!

  17. Hugo Cura says:

    Pretty cool. Also did that. Plus, the food was excellent!

  18. Melek says:

    I’ve visited Wadi Rum in 2012 also, it is a very fascinating place. I think it is almost impossible not to enjoy every moment of your time there.

  19. Gah, I’m doing this in December and I can’t wait! It really looks like an amazing experience!


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