Hiking in Cappadocia: The Freakiest Landscape on Earth
Of all the landscapes in the world, there is NOWHERE that looks like Cappadocia.
That’s what drew me to this region of central Turkey — this freaky, otherworldly landscape. During the Tertiary period (65 million to 2 million years ago), volcanic activity formed the mountains in the region. Over the next few millions of years, volcanic activity and rapidly changing temperatures led to the “fairy chimneys” and unusual cones.
Cappadocia (pronounced cap-pa-DO-kee-ya) is a region and is comprised of several towns. I flew to Kayseri and took a shuttle to Goreme, Cappadocia’s most popular backpacker town (though these days it’s becoming increasingly upmarket).
I arrived here in late November, and it was very cold — around freezing. While no snow had fallen yet, the town was deserted nonetheless. And, to be quite frank, it freaked me out. Nobody was around. I was always looking over my shoulder, feeling like a target.
I wouldn’t recommend visiting Goreme in the winter.
But there is far, FAR more to Cappadocia than just Goreme, and I knew I had to explore more of Cappadocia.
Luckily, at WTM in London a few weeks before, I had met Ali of Anahita Travel, a Cappadocia-based travel agency, and he invited me on a tour of Goreme National Park and the surrounding countryside.
We covered so much ground in Goreme National Park, including Pigeon Valley, the Sword Valley, the Red Valley and Rose Valleys #1 and #2.
I could not have had a better guide than Ali! Ali has lived his whole life in Cappadocia, and he knows the landscape incredibly well. We hiked together for hours and he wove history, geology, folklore, language, and religion into a tapestry that gave me an understanding of the landscape.
Check out this video, which showed the view of the Sword Valley:
The most fascinating part of Cappadocia by far? The cave churches, which are built right into the fairy chimneys and other parts of the landscape.
This church was one of the biggest surprises I’ve ever seen while traveling. We climbed up a ladder into a nondescript cave and found this meticulously carved church with incredible acoustics. (Yes, Ali made me sing.)
Other churches featured frescoes:
As I mentioned before, Goreme was deserted. This was true on the hiking trail as well, and Ali and I saw fewer than five people over the course of the day. (For this reason, always make sure to have a partner when hiking in Cappadocia.)
Soon, it was time for lunch.
And Ali pulled out some sausages, hot peppers, and a loaf of bread! We built a little fire and roasted them in the sun.
Eating food you cook yourself over a fire after hiking for a few hours? There’s no better lunch in the world.
I’m so glad that I got to hike into the hills of Cappadocia with an expert — it was a fantastic way to see this region and it remains one of my favorite days in Turkey.
I received a complimentary guided hike of Cappadocia from Anahita Travel. All opinions, as always, are my own.
At age 26, I quit my job to travel the world alone. I spent six fantastic months in Southeast Asia and turned my travel blog into a full-time business. Today, I travel full-time, going anywhere that sounds wacky or beautiful or interesting. My goal is to show YOU how you can travel the world on your own -- easily, safely, and adventurously. 
Wow, that cave church is so cool! I had no idea frescoes and such existed there. Just one more reason to go and visit!
Hey, just wanted to say that I love your blog. I’m planning my first backpacking trip this summer to se Asia with my wife. We are both in our 20′s and from the US. She is terrified of going. I think I will show her your blog. It might help. Thanks!
Thank you, Tim! I hope she isn’t TOO terrified! I hope it helps you two figure out what you’d like to do.
I WANT TO GO HERE!!!!
Great post, we were in Cappadocia around October, and whilst it wasn’t as cold, I found it equally amazing. I guess it would have added to the eeriness of Goreme’s ‘moonscape’ being one of few people there! And yes, your lunch looked delicious!
Wow, very fascinating landscape.
I love your post, it make me want to go there and this those cones between the houses…. It must be really beautful, and as you said really cold too…Are you still over there?
Nope, I was just there for two days in late November. A tad behind on the blogging.
I loved Cappadocia. It’s actually one of my favorite places on earth
Perhaps because it brings such great memories of my honeymoon back in 2009 
Another place added to my bucket list! didn’t even know this place existed
Wow, that really is like nowehere else! What a great adventure
Wow! I honestly had no idea this place even existed! It looks incredible, I’ve never seen anything like it. The cave churches are just spectacular – how many are there?
There are quite a few, John! I only hiked for a few hours, but there are many more.
Ooh, I didn’t know about the churches! Looks gorgeous.
One of the coolest places on earth, I thought. Did you get to the Dark Church? The best preserved of all of them, none of the faces gouged out and really rich colors! Where did you stay?
Not quite sure if I got there, Kevin, but what I did see was amazing. I stayed at Kose Pension (which I would not recommend if internet is a priority for you).
Hey Kate, I just stumbled on your website and have been reading vigorously. My wife and I were in Cappadocia in Dec 2011, did the balloon ride and the hike, so definitely can relate to your posts. We’re going to Bali in about a month, so I’ve been reading your posts on that as well. Looked like that shipwreck was quite an adventure. And I also lived in Boston for 8 years and it was interesting to read some of your posts on the city.
I saw you have South Africa coming up on your itinerary. Do Kruger for sure. We rented a car and drove ourselves, tremendous. Keep up the good work!