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May 2015 is going down in history as one of the funnest months of my life. I’ve had a lot of good months in my life — March and April of this year are certainly up there — but May was OUTSTANDING.
The month started out with the end of my second tour, followed by a trip to Semuc Champey with half our tour members, then my friend Erisa and I traveled to northeastern Guatemala, then all over Belize, then to just a hint of Quintana Roo in Mexico. I then flew home to Massachusetts.
This month was the closest I’ve ever been to living the life I fantasized about at a younger age. I traveled to tropical beaches with awesome friends. I had some on-the-road romance that still makes my knees weak and my heart race just thinking about it.
I played hard, doing physical adventures by day and drinking coconut rum by night. I barely worked, earning a 100% passive income this month (!!) and doing whatever I wanted on the blog without worrying about pleasing anyone but myself and you, my dear readers.
You may have noticed that I didn’t write much this month — honestly, part of that was how consistently poor the internet was; the other was that I was having such a good time.
Considering that at this time last year I was at the darkest point of my life, I feel incredibly blessed to be healthy, happy, and in such a good place today.
Destinations Visited
San Pedro, Lanquín, Semuc Champey, Flores, and Tikal, Guatemala
San Ignacio, Caye Caulker, Rendezvous Caye, Tobacco Caye, and Placencia, Belize
Tulum, Akumal, Chichen Itza, and Valladolid, Mexico
Reading and Andover, Massachusetts, USA
Favorite Places
Caye Caulker. I loved this tiny, laid-back island where you get to know everyone so well.
Semuc Champey. These pools and waterfalls became my favorite natural wonder in Central America.
Sailing just off the coast of Belize. The brightest turquoise waters. The incredible reef. The gorgeous islands. I loved all of it!
Highlights
SAILING BELIZE. The best thing I did this month! I spent three days sailing with Raggamuffin Tours, who hosted me as their guest, and it was incredibly, absurdly good fun! We sailed on a catamaran, we ate really good food, we snorkeled twice a day at a World Heritage-listed reef, we camped on tiny islands, and we laughed and drank rum punch and got to know the crew really well. I’ll be writing much more about this cruise in depth. (Note from September 2023: Raggamuffin Tours has now permanently closed.)
Probably my single favorite day of travel in Central America was the day we spent in Semuc Champey. We did the full-day tour that involved hiking to the viewpoint, lounging in the perfect green pools and waterfalls, swimming through a cave one-handedly while holding a candle in the other hand for light (AMAZING), and tubing down a river while little kids threw beers at us.
Belize shocked me — it’s never been one of the places I dreamed about, but I loved everything about it! The people were so friendly and full of joy, there was excellent travel infrastructure, and that water is the brightest turquoise shade I’ve ever seen. The ATM caves, where you can hike to actual human sacrifice remains (!!), is one of the most unusual activities I’ve done on the road.
Mexico was a brief yet joyful coda to my months in Central America. Tulum made a good base, though the beaches were muddy and full of seaweed (apparently it’s a problem this year) and not nearly as nice as what I had seen in photos. But Akumal had gorgeous beaches and swimming with turtles!
I went to Semuc Champey with four people from our latest tour (Erisa, Shaun, Candice, and Wren), and then Erisa and I traveled together for the next three weeks. We had so much fun together and she is probably the best travel companion I’ve ever had!
We lucked out — we were on the same page about everything from finances to adventures to people to blocking out time to do our makeup (we’re both makeup fiends). We did tons of crazy activities, but I think my favorite parts were the nights we spent sitting on our porch, gabbing and laughing our heads off while blasting the highly inappropriate Caribbean music we discovered in Belize, putting our phones in an empty water pitcher to make the music louder…
Plus, as a human in general, Erisa kicks ass. This definitely won’t be the last time we travel together!
At the end of the month, my dear friend Lisa, who has been one of my closest friends for 20 years, got married to a wonderful guy named Adam. I was honored to be a bridesmaid and to celebrate their wedding alongside several of my close friends and family.
To me, this month was all about the people. I met so many wonderful people and created beautiful memories with friends both old and new.
Challenges
I had some trouble at the Guatemala-Belize border. Turns out that when I crossed from El Salvador into Guatemala in April, they only permitted me a 13-day stay. I had no idea why; there is a 13 written on the stamp, but it doesn’t say “dias” or anything else obvious. The border agent didn’t say a word to me and timing-wise, there is no reason why I should have only been given 13 days.
(FYI, due to the CA-4 agreement, Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, and Nicaragua share borders — you can stay in all four countries for up to 90 days and you don’t get to re-start when you cross any of those borders. This had nothing to do with that; I was in the region for only 78 days and had a three-week US visit in between.)
So when I stayed 19 days, they wouldn’t let me leave without paying a fine. It was only 10 quetzals, or $1.30 USD, per day, which I paid, but I hate that immigration put me in that situation in the first place.
When you go to Guatemala, always check the number they write by hand on the right side of the entry stamp. That’s how many days you are permitted. If it’s not what you expect, talk to the immigration officer.
The travel blues hit me and Erisa hard in Placencia. The day after the sailing trip ended, we were miserable, missing our beloved Raggamuffin crew, whom we got to know well. After several weeks of travel where each day seemed even more fun than the last, it felt like we were suddenly dropped off a cliff. The solution? We went back to Caye Caulker to hang out with our buddies!
At another point, we ended up on a crazy 12-hour ride from San Pedro to Lanquín for which we paid for a fast express bus (didn’t happen), and a Chilean guy passed out with a beer in his lap and two Australian girls thought he was dead and started taking photos of him. Then the driver decided to power-wash the whole van with our bags on top. And took an hourlong lunch with his family while we were waiting outside in the rain. Great.
Most Popular Post
The Towns of Lake Atitlan, Guatemala — Guidebooks are so wrong about Lake Atitlan — it’s not a brief stopover but a place where you should stop and savor each different town!
Other Posts
Viewpoints: Traveling Solo as a Woman of Color with Maya Bhardwaj — I was thrilled with this interview with my friend Maya, talking about what it’s like to backpack as an Indian-American.
13 Takeaways from a First-Time Tour Guide — What’s it really like to run a tour? I spill the details.
Bachelorettes on the Run in Portland, Maine — Portland is a kickass little city and my friends and I tasted half the city in just 24 hours.
News and Announcements
This month I was featured in 8 Travel Bloggers You Should Follow on Snapchat on Thought Catalog. I’m really trying to create fun content on Snapchat, so I’d love to see you there! My screenname is adventurouskate, as it is just about everywhere.
Most Popular Photo on Instagram
This was the kind of stuff that we saw each day while sailing Belize. No further words necessary.
For live updates from my travels, I’m adventurouskate on Instagram and on Snapchat!
Funniest Photo I’ve Ever Taken
There is a rope swing not far from Flores, Guatemala, and we decided to take a boat there and spend an afternoon chilling out. When we pulled in, a guy flung himself off the rope swing and I snapped this photo absentmindedly.
“Kate!” Erisa exclaimed. “His bathing suit fell off! Did you get it?”
DID I EVER GET IT.
Erisa and I laughed until our sides ached. Then we showed the guy and his friends one by one, as well as our driver and the guesthouse staff, and each of them laughed until their sides ached.
What I Read This Month
I’m still cracking away at the Popsugar 2015 book challenge, where I read 52 books in 50 categories over the course of a year. 22 down, 30 to go!
Missoula: Rape and the Justice System in a College Town by Jon Krakauer. This book is so difficult to read, yet so important. The city of Missoula, home to the University of Montana, has been in the news for many college rape cases; this book profiles several of them. It is horrific how rape victims are treated by both the police and the law — it’s a unique crime in that victims are often assumed to be lying about it.
The worst part is that Missoula, despite all the publicity, is actually average in terms of number of rape cases in similarly sized college towns. And that terrifies me. Category: a book that scares you.
God Help the Child by Toni Morrison. I adore Toni Morrison’s books — they’re a mix of pain, betrayal, and love, with just a hint of fantasy. This is her latest book and her first that takes place in the present day. It tells the story of a woman named Bride, who was born very dark black to two light-skinned black parents, causing her mother to reject her emotionally. She grows up to be a woman both stunning and successful, but her childhood leads to a lot of pain in her life as an adult.
My favorite line: “Sober as priests, creative as devils, they invented sex. So they believed.” Category: a book by an author you love that you haven’t read yet.
What Janie Found by Caroline B. Cooney. I was stuck on the “a book from your childhood” category, since I only want to read new books in the challenge, but I realized that I had only read three of the five books in The Face on the Milk Carton series, which I started when I was around 10 or so. I love Caroline B. Cooney — I’ve read more than 10 of her books and even met her when I was 13!
Now reading them as an adult, I’m struck by how the writing is for kids but the subject matter is so mature, which covers what happens when a teenage girl realizes she was kidnapped as a child and has two families desperate to have her to themselves. What Janie Found explores more of these complicated emotions as Janie learns that her father has been sending money to his birth daughter, her kidnapper. Category: a book from your childhood.
Image: Moyan Brenn
Coming Up in June 2015
Everything! I’m home in Massachusetts for the first ten days, then I head to Milwaukee to mentor at the Bloghouse! Next up is six days in Chicago. Both of these cities are new to me (as is the Midwest as a whole — crazy, right?) and I’m eager to explore them both, especially their culinary legends.
Then on June 19, I fly to Copenhagen, kicking off a summer in Europe. I literally have nothing planned after that, but I think I’ll just spend a few days there and see my friend Alex, then head to Athens and see my friend Becki. After that, I’ll make my way through Greece to Corfu and then be in Albania by July.
I’m betting/hoping you will love Chicago. It’s just one of the best!
Oh my Goood!!! I can’t believe you’re coming to Corfu! I live here! If you need any tips, let me know 😀
I LOVED Copenhagen. If you have time, take the train to Helsingor and see the Kronborg Castle (it’s a World Heritage Site and was the setting for Hamlet). The city is small, but gave a feeling for what a normal Danish town would look like. Most of the tourists there are Swedish, so a lot of the shops cater to Swedes looking to buy cheap(er) stuff.
Also, check out Mikkeller! It’s a microbrewery with a super cool kind-of-basement bar near the train station. We stumbled upon it completely by accident and loved it.
Oh, and climb up Vor Frelser’s Kirke in Christianshavn! It’s a twisty path to the top, and the last portion of it is outside, so it’s a bit terrifying. Then you can get danishes from Lagkagehuset – they have a huge selection and it seemed pretty popular with the locals.
Is Helsingor a day trip? If so, I can definitely swing that! Love World Heritage hunting.
It is! It’s about a 45 minute trip each way.
I am so excited about you going to Europe! Your tropical trips sound amazing but a bit hard for me to relate to; but Denmark is somewhere I plan to visit, as well as the Balkans, sooner rather than later (I went to Belgium, Netherlands, Serbia and Croatia last year, likely going to Germany in July). So I am super excited about your food and sightseeing recommendations, as well as general cultural observations!
I go to the Balkans every summer (this is the fourth one in a row!) so I am loving that tradition!
My suggestions for CPH. Almost none of these are budget-friendly but there are very few things that are budget friendly in CPH – which surely you are aware of, since you’ve been to Stockholm and Norway.
Café Bakery Mirabelle (amazing decor + coffee and sandwiches)
Aamans smorrebrod deli
Norrebro Bryghus
Picnic by Rosenborg Castle
Café Auto
Tovernhallerne: Coffee Collective and Grod (for their dulche de leche porridge)
Pizza at Gorm’s in a beautiful candle-lit space by Nyhavn
Vintage shopping at Episode
Delicious veggie buffet at Riz Raz
The view from atop the Rundetaarn + amazing architecture inside
Organic Danish hotdogs at Dop by Rundetaarn
The Donut Shop (be nice and the owner might give you a free one)
Stroll at (free to enter) Kastellet
Instagram colourful Magstræde
Traditionnally-made candy at Somods Bocher
Enjoy your time in CPH! 🙂
Love it — thank you!
As a native midwesterner, I hope you like it! As far as Milwaukee, I greatly enjoyed the Lakefront Brewery tour. It’s a smaller brewery with hilarious tour guides (not just your typical tour). In Chicago, I’m sure you know this already, but you absolutely must try Giordano’s deep dish! If you’re looking for things to do in Chicago, there are free events all summer at Millennium Park – from concerts, to films, to salsa dancing! (at least the summer I was there). Safe travels!
PIZZA WARS!
Will you be doing a meetup while you are in Milwaukee? Would love to discuss travel stories with you 🙂 Milwaukee has so many unique places. I have lived here most of my life. The safe house restaurant (used to be an old safe house in war), holler house (oldest bowling alley in the nation), bayview neighborhood and riverwest area ( best neighborhood for nightlife and international restaurants), Milwaukee art museum and landmark theaters for international films. I could list a ton more. Check out my local flavor section on my blog. Hope you enjoy your stay. I didn’t make it in bloghouse Milwaukee this year. Maybe next year. 🙂 take care!!!
I don’t think I will because I’m going to be busy with Bloghouse the whole time. :-/ But thank you so much for these recommendations!!
Not sure if it was intentional or not that some lady’s butt photobombed your Corona shot. 🙂
Ha. Not intentional, but people love it, so it stays!
What beach is that btw?
The beach with the boat is Rendezvous Caye in Belize (an uninhabited island where the cruise went); the one with the beer is Akumal in Mexico.
Thanks Kate. I almost went to Akumal/Cozumel then decided on Punta Cana instead. That water looks amazing!!
Did you get scuba certified on your trip?
No, but that’s a priority for the next year.
So so please to hear(read) that you’re in a completely different place to how you felt last year.
You’re living proof that life is what you make it and I wish you every happiness and opportunity for the future xo
That’s very kind of you to say, Amy. Thanks so much. 🙂
Can’t wait to hear more about the Belize travels! And GIRL – you are GLOWING in that top pic in the sarong! You look so joyful!
Awww, thanks so much! I felt very happy when it was taken!
I recommend going to one of Chicago’s many Blues Bars. The one I would personally recommend is called “Kingston Mines” in the northern Chicago neighborhoods. It’s been around since the 60s. Chicago played an integral role in the history of Blues music, and “Chicago Blues” is a known sub-genre of Blues music that is widely played and recognized today. I wrote an article about the history and things to do while in Chicago on a music blog, and if you’d like to learn more, I can send it to you for reference. I’m a local and have lived here all my life, so if you need some more advice, let me know!
I hope you’ll enjoy the windy city!
Blues — awesome suggestion! Thanks.
If you like to go to a museum nearby Copenhagen, choose the Louisiana museum. If you like to sit in the sun go to the Assistens Cemetery. Drink your coffee and eat your cake in the sun at the cemetery-park like the locals do. Go for food to the norreport food market, and take it to go. Take the train and go to Mallmo, to see a bit of Sweden as well. Perfect daytrip.Awesome city. Loved it!
Love it! Thanks, Roos.
What an epic May for you Kate … can’t wait to hear about your European adventures this summer though!
By the pictures , it looks you had an amazing month and you are very lucky to have one of your best friends traveling with you
Thanks for the snapshot of your time in Central America, Kate! Definitely adding some of these things to the bucket list for my road trip from USA to Argentina starting this summer!
Hell of a road trip, Ford!
Kate, I just wanted to say you are my favorite travel blogger! Your fun, inspiring and so very adventurous (duh!)!! Really enjoying following along. Hopefully we will get the chance to cross paths some day.
-Kate
Awww, thanks so much, Kate!
What an awesome month! Love your photos, as usual. Looking forward to meeting you at BlogHouse next week!
So looking forward to meeting you! 🙂
I entered Ireland last week, and the customs officer wrote in my passport that I was allowed to remain in the country for 1 day longer than the day I said I had planned to leave. It made me wonder what people like you, with flexible and not always defined travel plans, would do. It didn’t matter for me since I was definitely leaving, but it was a bit startling to find out that I could only be in the country legally for exactly the length of time I was planning to be when I entered. It seemed weird, but maybe that’s how they can confirm if you’ve been in the country for too long per year? It doesn’t help that the customs stamps at Dublin always seem to be nearly out of ink and thus barely legible either!
I also got a lot more questions at both Norway and Ireland customs than I remember getting in recent trips to Ireland and Belgium (including entering Ireland just over a week before the 1-extra-day stamp! Although those times were for business so maybe that’s the difference?) When I entered Norway, the customs officer wanted to know how long I was staying (and seemed skeptical when I said just 5 days), where I was staying, if I had arrangements to get between Oslo and Bergen, et c…
Ugh, that’s awful! And unusual.
Just last summer I read the first milk carton book, and promptly had to get the rest from the library and tear through the whole series! It really is a good crossover read, like you said-written for younger but with quite adult themes.
Just this summer? It was a big part of my childhood! See if you can find the made for TV movie.
Nice and fun read
You’re looking fantastic and glowing. Central America was a perfect fit for you. I’m so pleased that you’re back in Europe. Denmark is a lovely little country and really nice for a relaxing walk on a windy beach. Copenhagen is cute and trendy but expensive, but then pretty much every Nordic country is, so it’s perfectly fine LOL!
p.s. that photo with the guy and his sticking out bum, is hilarious!
Thank you, Victoria! I think it was a great fit for me too. 🙂 Looking forward to Denmark!
Only just discovered your blog, and you have a lot of handy tips for travelling independently. I’m only 21, but I have thought about travelling on my own for a long time, and wouldn’t really know where to begin! I’ve always been advised to go with another person so it’s a refreshing change to see how you have started it all on your own.
Well, Hi Kate. You look so sexy and strong. I hope having a day to meet you in Hanoi. Yeah
Yay, Chicago! I think you’ll love it here, especially if you have a chance to explore some of neighborhoods outside of the Loop–Lincoln Square, Wicker Park, Logan Square…and okay, I’ll put in a little plug for the far north Edgewater and Rogers Park, even though, to be perfectly honest, there’s not a ton to see here, except some of the most beautiful lake views in the city. In my opinion. I’m completely biased. 🙂
Also, if you have time, absolutely hop on the architectural boat tour. It’s fascinating and entertaining, and a great way to appreciate the eclectic buildings of downtown.
I love architecture — that is a must for me!
Rogers Park represent!!! Haha. I love our north side beach neighborhood.
Kate, as a proud Chicago artist I feel obligated to mention that you should certainly sample some of our art & music scene. You can’t go wrong with the Art Institute of Chicago & free Millennium Park concerts, or, for street-level / neighborhood enjoyment, remember that June is the super busy festival season here. There is Old Town & Wells Street Art festivals, Blues Fest, Ribfest, Andersonville Fest and so many others – and that’s just one weekend! Oh yeah, and The Dock at Montrose Beach has free outdoor reggae concerts on Wednesday nights.
What a great month you had, Kate! Sometimes is good to slow down, enjoy the moment, to spend more time with people around. Enjoy your time in US and then in Europe 😉 Safe travels!
Awesome destinations. Aside from the border issue in Guatemala, what other not so positive things do you experience in your travels?
I mention a few every month and then I do a big overview at the end of the year!
While you’re in Milwaukee, Madison makes a great side-trip. It’s a quirky town unlike any other place in the midwest. Lots of great outdoor activities, fantastic food, great people – I’ve been several times and I always look forward to my trips to Madison.
I’m so excited that you’re coming to Chicago! I’ve lived there my whole life and put it up there as one of the best cities. Please don’t listen to the person that said to go the Giordano’s! If you’re getting deep dish go to Lou Malnati’s, Uno’s, or Due’s. Lou Malnati’s is the best but the others will do. And of course get Garrett’s popcorn and a hotdog. A few activities I would recommend include taking a Wendella boat ride or the architectural boat tour, going on a Pedway tour, listening to a free concert at Millenium Park, going to the beach, checking out the ceiling at the Chicago Cultural Center (free/ right across from Millenium Park), and just walking around different neighborhoods . Also, I did kayaking on the Chicago River once and it was a great time and there are usually groupons for it. Lastly, be sure to check out some of the awesome museums and explore different neighborhoods. The Museum of Science and Industry is my favorite museum and some of my favorite neighborhoods include Wicker Park, Lincoln Park, Lakeview, and Logan Square. Hope you have a great time!
Seconding all of this, and also if you have time, the Driehaus Museum is worth a visit. It’s a restored mansion off Michigan Avenue, and it’s currently home to an amazing art deco jewelry exhibit.
I really love art deco jewelry. Thanks for the suggestion!
Love these tips, especially the pizza! Thanks!
I am currently waiting for my bus to head to Copenhagen! I’m there for about 10 days then heading to Sweden, Norway and Finland. Reading through your blogs has been a great way to pass the time, thank you!
What an awesome month! I really wanted to do the 3 day sailing adventure with Raggamuffin as I loved there one day snorkelling trip so much but we were low on time and funds. I only went to Cay Caulker (which I loved) in Belize so I will definitely be back one day to explore the ATM caves and go to more places on the coast.
Hi Kate! just wanted to say that i am obsessed with your latest trip to Central America!!! I am from NY but go to guatemala almost every year to visit fam. This year i alrweady told my cousins to take me to semuc champey and lake atitlan! Thanks to you i didnt know guate was so beautiful and love it even more! Also im sure you get this all the time but i wanted to k ow what camera you used for this trip? Wish you best of luck on your next trips! Xoxo
Thank you so much! You’ll love Atitlan and Semuc Champey. The latter is much harder to get to but so worth it. The photos in this post are actually all iPhone 6 photos (as my recap posts all are); I just bought a new Fujifilm X-T1 for my good camera and for the past few years my DSLR photos have been from my Nikon D5100.
WOW, the water in Belize looks divine! I just want to jump right in…
Hi Kate,
Looking forward to read your Europe diaries.
Been one of my favorite destinations since my Milan days way back in 2009.
Surely you are gonna have a wonderful time..
Enjoy
So excited that you’ll be visiting Milwaukee and Chicago! I moved to Milwaukee last year and I LOVE it, make sure you do a brewery tour! Lakefront and MKE Brewing Co are my favorites, definitely skip Miller- it’s free but not the same personality as the others. Also, Lakefront has the BEST cheese curds.
That is awesome! And “best cheese curds” are the magic words — thanks!
I love Semuc Champey – your photos make me wanna go back!
I would love to show you around Chicago! I’m an e-mail away if you need anything.
Thank you!
I studied abroad in Copenhagen last year, and fell in LOVE with it. You’re going to love Copenhagen!!! I wish I could go back!
Definitely rent a bike, and make sure you eat at Paludan Bogcafe (get the goat cheese burger- YUM). And if you have time, visit Møns Klint Cliffs in southern Denmark (it’s an easy day trip via train and bus, though my friends and I took the train and then biked 35 miles- hah!). The list goes on, there’s so much to do! Enjoy :]
It was very nice .. The photos you are posted is amazing . Really i was stunned for these photos ..good work keep it up…
If you have the time for a 24 hour side trip from Athens, I HIGHLY suggest going up to Meteora.
There are trains from Athens->Kalambaka (~30€ round trip) We did the sunset tour through Visit Meteora the day we arrived, and the half day tour (40€ per tour) the next morning before heading back to Athens. We stayed at Tsikeli Hotel in Kastraki. It was a very nice, clean room and the grounds are beautiful as well.
We could easily have spent weeks there, the landscapes are gorgeous, and the monasteries fascinating!
Those turquoise waters in Belize are absolutely GORGEOUS! xx the photos look amazing, as always 🙂
What a beautiful month! I’m heading over to central America later this year…I was already excited but your pictures have just stepped it up a gear 🙂
If you’re spending time in southern Europe its definitely worth checking our Santorini and Croatia (particularly Dubrovnik and Rovinj). If you fancy it check out my post on Dubrovnik…the food is incredible! https://thebigsmokeandbeyond.wordpress.com/2015/04/20/autumn-sunbathing-in-europe-a-long-weekend-in-dubrovnik/
Have spent a lot of time in Croatia! Love Rovinj and Dubrovnik.
The reason you are by far my favourite blog is how you take your readers on a journey.
I feel like we have all been there through this journey you have had from the dark times last year to this happy place you are now in. Its great to see and makes me feel very happy for you! Your openness amazes me.
Thanks for all the handy tips from your trip to Central America- can’t wait to hear about Copenhagen, Albania and Greece- all places I’ll be about the same time next year!
Thank you SO much, Britt! I appreciate that deeply! And I feel like you’ve all been there with me, too.
Thanks for sharing to this blog comments, it is provide in monthly recap in the next month May 2015. I really like this blog comments!